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| | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | I have read some threads pertaining to the rear handle contacting door skin.I know you can cut the tip down on the handle and make it work.I have studied the latch mechanism and believe a little weld put on either surface will stop the handle from contacting the sheet metal.I'm not sure how much to put on it just yet,but will be trying it soon.Here is a picture of what I'm talking about. rear latch mechanism Thanks,Tim
1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Tim, I was going to mention the handle touching the sheetmetal, but the post took it's own direction. What about using a gasket under the handle as original, but making it thicker? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | That could possibly work,depending on how thick the gasket ends up.
I'm going to put some weld on mine and use the gasket that came with the handle.
Tim
1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I had mine apart once and was going to braze a daub on it but couldn't find my brass rod. I believe it will work. I still haven't gotten around to buying more rod. | | |
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