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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
N
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
I tried a search here to no avail. I read somewhere online that some folks are dropping their AD body parts onto an S10 frame, etc. for a more updated driver. I understand that may be sacrilage on a site like this...but I don't have any aspirations about restoring a show class AD. I'd just like a service-able DD. Any input on this subject?

Joined: Feb 2002
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W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
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Posts: 2,893

It'd be a lot easier to just fix up what you have.

You can fit a small block in there, upgrade the brakes, all sorts of stuff and keep the original frame.

I never understood the S10 frame swap.

-W


Joined: May 2011
Posts: 266
P
Shop Shark
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Posts: 266
ill give you some first hand experience on that. This is my first time restoring or rebuilding anything and figured that would be the quickest easiest way to go so I purchased one of those high dollar swap kits.After i got the kit installed i figured that it was not what i wanted, the ride height was original to high and was not the look i was looking for. I still have the kit in storage.But all in all it can be a good choice depending on the look you want?

Joined: Aug 2007
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S
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,859
I went the route of the S-10 swap initially. I looked into kits, I researched doing it myself based on swaps from the HAMB,etc. the S-10 track width is 4" narrower, requiring you to run spacers in the front. the worse place to put weight is unsprung.

you also have to run the 4x4 rear axle (a bit over 3" wider than the 2WD) to get the rear tires to fit.

Then I looked into pinto based suspensions. (remember, the mustang II is a pinto with different sheet metal outer body) that didnt fly either.

in my S-10 frame swap project, I got to the point where I was having problems with steering and cooling system both trying to occupy the same space at the same time.

then I developed my own IFS.

a while back I put together a definitive list of upgrades:

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=80741&Number=571697#Post571697

a few interesting things. a Dakota track width is closer to the AD than the S-10 is.


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by Scott Danforth
I went the route of the S-10 swap initially. I looked into kits, I researched doing it myself based on swaps from the HAMB,etc. the S-10 track width is 4" narrower, requiring you to run spacers in the front. the worse place to put weight is unsprung.

you also have to run the 4x4 rear axle (a bit over 3" wider than the 2WD) to get the rear tires to fit.

Then I looked into pinto based suspensions. (remember, the mustang II is a pinto with different sheet metal outer body) that didnt fly either.

in my S-10 frame swap project, I got to the point where I was having problems with steering and cooling system both trying to occupy the same space at the same time.

then I developed my own IFS.

a while back I put together a definitive list of upgrades:

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=80741&Number=571697#Post571697

a few interesting things. a Dakota track width is closer to the AD than the S-10 is.

Your points on needing spacers and the 4X4 diff are true, if you want it to have a stock track width. It all depends on the look you want. On my S-10 swap and my dad's, we both went with wider wheels to fill the gap, as we like that look better. So we're both running 15x8 wheels up front with 3.5" backspacing, and 15x10 out back with 3.75" backspacing.

Anyone choosing to go this route needs to double check the backspacing before they buy wheels, as there are clearances to be concerned with on both front and back.

I have seen the kits, and they are highly overpriced and don't get the cab very low over the frame. You can do your own and end up with a much better result if you have some fabrication skills.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
Joined: Aug 2007
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S
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
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you dont need a kit if you have fab skills

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=58105&Number=421710#Post421710

I ended up with the cab 1.5" above the frame before I scrapped the idea and traded the modified S-10 frame to Danimal for a stock '53 fram.

with or without a kit, you still have the whole S-10 steering box and radiator both trying to fit in the same location.


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Joined: Jun 2009
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Scott Danforth
you dont need a kit if you have fab skills

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=58105&Number=421710#Post421710

I ended up with the cab 1.5" above the frame before I scrapped the idea and traded the modified S-10 frame to Danimal for a stock '53 fram.

with or without a kit, you still have the whole S-10 steering box and radiator both trying to fit in the same location.


Not sure why you were having clearance issues. My dad's '52 is on an S-10 frame with a 454. His steering box is the stock S-10 unit, and the radiator was the stock radiator recored toe xactly the same size, until he replaced it with a direct fit be-cool.

On my '46, my rad will be a bit smaller due to steering box clearance at the bottom, but I'll still have roughly a 19x24" aluminum radiator.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,859
S
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
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Joined: Aug 2007
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my radiator AND Charge-Air Cooler wont fit with an S-10 frame.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2341141190101989507sPOtHq
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2154745150101989507tNDvZW

and you can not have the stock radiator in the stock location on an S-10 frame because it sits in the same location as the steering box. most people run mustang radiators because they are short, or they tip the radiator to clear the steering box.

my cooling package is too thick to tip forward, therefore the frame is being changed back and my IFS kit going in.


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Scott Danforth
my radiator AND Charge-Air Cooler wont fit with an S-10 frame.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2341141190101989507sPOtHq
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2154745150101989507tNDvZW

and you can not have the stock radiator in the stock location on an S-10 frame because it sits in the same location as the steering box. most people run mustang radiators because they are short, or they tip the radiator to clear the steering box.

my cooling package is too thick to tip forward, therefore the frame is being changed back and my IFS kit going in.


I guess my dad's truck doesn't exist then. His is in exactly the stock location. I was looking at it today. It all depends where and how your body is on the frame. This is the exact reason why we lower the frame before mounting the body. You get much more clearance.

Last edited by 46gmcpu; 08/12/2012 9:55 AM.

1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,299
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'Bolter
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Joined: May 2011
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Shop Shark
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Originally Posted by Greg_H
yuuuup that's the one i purchased !!!!

Joined: May 2010
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T
Shop Shark
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 303
I know a fella who has done a bunch of the S-10 frame swaps for folks here in Bama. He has done a bunch of em. I really do not like the stance of the truck when it is finished, way to low for me. But I guess differnt strokes for differnt folks. Anyway if you want his number just PM me. His shop is called "Creekside Customs".


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