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| | | Forums66 Topics128,091 Posts1,056,038 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 29 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 29 | I want to paint my own '37 truck - a driver not a show car. I have a medium quality gun and compressor. The existing paint is tired, but holding well with a few places of rust through. So, I'd like to be able to clean up the rust spots, sand the rest and then paint with a new color. What is the difference between acrylic enamal and urethane as far as the novice is concerned? What surface prep/primer should I use under these two types of paint especially since I won't paint everything at once and parts may sit in primer for a while? I've tried reading past posts, but get confused. Thanks to all.
CAB | | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 96 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 96 | urethane is what new cars are painted with, a good quality urethane sprays well and covers well. Done right and it should out live most of us. I like epoxy primer, the spots that have rust will need to be sanded to bare metal so that will require primer, probably will need a sealer coat to get an even surface to put the color coat on. My choice would be epoxy as primer on bare metal and for the sealer coat ( basically primer with a little more thinner) it also helps promote adhesion of the color coat. Paint wise you have the choice of single stage or base and top coat, (color and clear). I use single stage and the shoot a couple of coats of clear on top of that for extra durability.
Last edited by 513600; 08/09/2012 9:32 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | The question is will your new paint play well with the old paint... Its best to strip it down to bare metal then epoxy. If your doing a panel at a time the epoxy will protect the metal till your ready for paint. Epoxy might stick to your old sanded paint... Or not. Your gamble.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | urethane is what new cars are painted with, a good quality urethane sprays well and covers well. Done right and it should out live most of us. I like epoxy primer, the spots that have rust will need to be sanded to bare metal so that will require primer, probably will need a sealer coat to get an even surface to put the color coat on. My choice would be epoxy as primer on bare metal and for the sealer coat ( basically primer with a little more thinner) it also helps promote adhesion of the color coat. Paint wise you have the choice of single stage or base and top coat, (color and clear). I use single stage and the shoot a couple of coats of clear on top of that for extra durability. New cars are painted with waterborne paint. They require completely different guns, a different shop setup, and are hard to get to look good, especially if you've never painted with waterborne. Use a base clear in urethane. You'll end up with a better finish in the long run, and it will be more durable. Like has been already said, prep is key to proper adhesion. Also, was the existing paint done over the original paint, and was it completely stripped when it was painted? Sometimes the original lead-based paint can bleed through (especially if you're painting a lighter colour), your new paint, requiring you to have to paint again. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | There's nothing wrong with AE for a driver and a novice painter. It's light yrs ahead of what they used originally. It's also easier on the lungs if you don't have a supplied air setup. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 29 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 29 | The Cheapest way to go is Mayco if you have one in your town .. you can't buy the paint for what they charge you ..
1948 3100 1948 Fleetline Areo 1951 Suburban Carryall ( http://photobucket.com/51Burb ) 1957 3100 " Tell me who U Hang with & I'll Tell U who You are "!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 133 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 133 | urathane over 2k primer for me.(no clear) as stated, prep is the most important thing for a good paint job.
daren | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 159 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 159 | New cars are painted with waterborne paint. They require completely different guns, a different shop setup, and are hard to get to look good, especially if you've never painted with waterborne. that is not exactly true you don't need a completely different set up or guns or different shop set up. if you have never painted with waterbourne it is harder to get it to look good but if you have painted it is no harder to get it to look good then any other paint. Yes I have painted with it
1938 Gmc 1/2 ton
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 159 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 159 | The Cheapest way to go is Mayco if you have one in your town .. you can't buy the paint for what they charge you .. I can get AE delivered to my door for about $120. complete kit ready to mix and paint, MAYCO will charge somebody $500 to a $1000 here tcpglobal.com check them out
1938 Gmc 1/2 ton
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 413 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 413 | For what you are looking for, and if you don't want to get into stripping to bare metal, go with acrylic enamel. Even though it's old school, it's probably the cheapest and easiest way to go. id go with Dupont Centari,or PPG's Delstar. They both are easy to spray and hold out well. And believe it or not, they really arent light years ahead of what was on your truck when new. These trucks were painted at the factory with Dupont Dulux Synthetic enamel. Acrylic enamel is what replaced this
Another option would be to go singlestage urethane, which is what I would use myself. I like it because it doesnt chalk out and fade as much as compared to Acrylic enamel & it lays down better, & holds out better.
Last edited by JeffL; 08/12/2012 10:21 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 413 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 413 | The Cheapest way to go is Mayco if you have one in your town .. you can't buy the paint for what they charge you .. As far as Maaco goes, it is what it is. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 | Acrylic enamel is easy to use for the novice, like me. Urethane is tough, no doubt, but toxic as @#%&!, if you don't have the proper fresh air suit, etc. I used to sell Dupont, and if you ever read the labels (Nobody ever does, right???,) it will scare the heck out of you. Whatever you do, use proper respirator and clothing, etc. It is not worth the risk.
1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC" A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark! | | |
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