The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Sealing compound on top of cab

Hi all. This is my first project truck, I'm totally new at this, and I don't want to make it worse. Thank goodness there's a place like the Stovebolt for info and advice!!!

While inspecting the hole drilled in the roof of the cab, I noticed chunks of hardened material in the "rain gutter" around the edge of the roof. The shop manual says this about that sealer:
"Sealing Compound: For use on bare metal surfaces without spot weld sealer. ... joints should be filled with a sealer of this type before painting."

Can anyone recommend a brand, or tell me what it is called. I want to make sure I get something that will work.

Oh, and we get some very extreme temperatures where I live, so if there are different grades of this sealer ... I need the tough stuff. lol

Thanks in advance for the help. I'm sure this is just the first of many basic questions in this forum.

I took a dremel tool to it and cleaned all the original out firstn then sealed with seam sealer and after it cured for a few weeks painted with EP.

3M 8307 self leveling seam sealer is made for the job. You'll want to chip out all the old crack sealer first and get the bare metal. You should be able to find it at any automotive paint supply jobber.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-self-leveling-seam-sealer-08307-p-10855.aspx

What's "EP"? Told you I'd have very basic questions. hehe

Thanks for the responses. I'll hunt some up next time I'm at the store.

E-poxy P-rimer .... what you should use for the whole vehicle

Bill

As seam sealers have been prone to shrinking, cracking, and leaving metal beneath these cracks exposed (just look at original drip rails for example), my preferred method is to epoxy prime first, and then apply seam sealer.

What ^ they said! I'm using it as my high build as well. I love the way it sands and eliminates the need for guide coats or any concerns for Water absorbtion into the paint like laquer does.
The research I put into finding a good EP was the best thing I've done for my project as its saved me the costs I've put into just the materials alone. I'd be stuck shooting rustoleum for close to the same price if I hadn't and that didn't really light my fire.

What EP did you end up using?

SPI

on a slightly different note: I was just thinking about rust removal products and wondered if any of them remove road tar or undercoatings. My guess is they don't and so that leaves one with yet another process to do.
(I also doubt reverse electrolysis effects tars or the like, leaving Blasting as the most thorough and complete option)

Undercoat remover:

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-under-gone-undercoat-ing-remover.html