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#87286 09/04/2002 6:52 AM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 57 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 57 | I have just finished converting my 51 chevy pickup to a 350/350. I have also installed a modern aftermarket wiring harness. So far every thing seams to work good. If I turn the key on without the engine running(it is not quite ready to fire up) and let it set a few minutes the alternator gets real hot. If you leave it for 30-40 minutes it is almost to hot to touch. Is this normal?? OR do I have a defective alternator?? It is wired properly as per the wire harness instructions. [img] http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/ubb//eek.gif[/img]
Kelly
1951 Chevy 3100
1967 RS/SS Camaro
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#87287 09/04/2002 8:09 AM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | How tight is the belt?Should be about 3/4 of an inch total deflection measured on the longest span of belt.
Does the alternator make any noise?
Is the alternator mounted to near the exhaust manifold?
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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#87288 09/04/2002 9:55 AM | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 140 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 140 | wait. you havent started the truck at all since you put this setup in? the altenator just heats up when you have the key in the on position, but without the engine running? Sounds like something is wired wrong, and is running electricity through the coils in the alt. making it heat up. Check to make sure you dont have any wires crossed somewhere.
Jonathan S. Keffer
Certified Yeti Trainer
Richard Roy Schlicht-
Good Grandfather, Veteran Wrench Turner...
"If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is..."
Es gibt nichts, zu befürchten, aber befürchtet sich.
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#87289 09/07/2002 2:55 AM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | O.K.,,,, I have made an appointment with the eye Dr. and re-read your post  You either have a wire hooked up wrong,wire shroting to ground,lack of ground or the unit is defective.Remove the alternator and have it tested at the local auto-parts store or electric motor shop.If it checks out o.k., take a real close look at the wiring and connections.
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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#87290 09/07/2002 6:43 AM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 57 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 57 | I posted this same message on the Hotrodders fourm and got a reply that said this type of set up needs to have a 10 ohm / 10 watt resistor in the excitor wire. You can also use resistor wire in place of the resistor. I found an old auto manual that confirmed this. So I went to Radio Shack and bought one, installed it and that solved the problem. NO more hot alternator. [img] http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/ubb//biggrin.gif[/img] I tried to fire it up today for the first time with no success. I do not have any spark coming out of the coil. I have power to the coil with the ignition switch on, it cranks over good but no fire!!! [img] http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/ubb//mad.gif[/img]
Kelly
1951 Chevy 3100
1967 RS/SS Camaro
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#87291 09/07/2002 6:58 AM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | Good to hear on the alternator situation  I would check for fire at the points and see if they are opening with the cam on the distributor shaft.If the points do not open, there will be no spark coming out of the coil. The coil MAY be defective.Do you have a known good one to try?
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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#87292 09/07/2002 7:11 AM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 57 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 57 | The coil is new, but that does not mean that it is good??
I have installed a Pretronix Ignitor in the distributor so I can't check on the points opening.
How else can I check this set up out??
Kelly
1951 Chevy 3100
1967 RS/SS Camaro
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#87293 09/07/2002 7:22 AM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | Well, having not dealt with the Pertronix set-up, I will have to leave that answer to someone who does know how and where to test,,,I may try to look on-line to see what info I can find.
You should have 12 volts on each sid eof the coil with the key on,,,,,You do have 12 volt correct?
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The coil COULD be defective even being new but not likely.Did you get any paperwork with the Pertronix? troubleshooting type directions?
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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#87294 09/07/2002 1:57 PM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I did not see mention of this above: do you by any chance have a voltage-reducer (resistor) in your ignition circuit? This could be an in-line (usually ceramic) resistor, a resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil, or a resister coil (a resistor in the coil itself). The Pertronix unit requires 12 volts.
Tim | | |
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