The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay re wiring for fun?????

I have a 1954 chevy 3/4 ton 6 volt. The amp gauge does not move toward charge at all, but goes to dis charge when the lights are on. I can run about a month before I have to use a batter charger If I don't run the lights. Some of the wireing is pretty bad under the truck. So I was thinking now would be a good time to rewire and upgrade to 12 volts. But I am afraid I will screw it up. Is it possible for someone who does not know anything to do this, if so HOw? When? how much? and it not, where can I get it done?
Thanks :p

I ordered a 12v wiring harness from Chevy Duty, it came numbered and color coded and simple enough to do in one day.

Do you want to change your truck to 12v or keep it original? They have 6v harnesses with heavier wire, so test the generator and regulator before you commit to all new hardware.

Here's what I ended up with:

90-amp internally regulated alternator
12v Interstate battery
12 to 6 voltage drop resistor, coil
12 to 6 voltage drop resistor, fuel gauge
12v halogen headlights
12v bulbs for tail, marker, dome and dash lights
12v cigarette lighter
12v heater fan
12v wiper motor
(am I forgetting anything?)

You're going to need wire cutters/strippers and a pile of connectors (I used crimp sleeves in some places, spade connectors in others). You may or may not need a side-terminal style starter switch, I didn't use one and it works fine.

On the downside, my fuel gauge reads high because I'm still using a 6v sending unit. The benefits are I can put any modern equipment in the truck (stereo, power seats, electric wipers, etc) and stuff like cell phones and laptops plug in to the dash.

Make a list of electrical components that need to be replaced; it may affect your decision.

Edit: I forgot the fuseblock I added for all the new stuff. :p

funtime: Here's a site with some helpfull info. Check it out.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/ddness/index.html

Cool link Wingnut-why not submit that to the "Powers That Be" here at Stovebolt-it SHOULD be on our permanent links list!

Regards,
Wannabe

Hi,Thanks for the info. I am real slow at responding but I have a question? What is the difference in the $100.00 wiring harness and the $300.00 harness? and is it really as simply as it seems? If I buy a one wire alternater do I need a new bracket?

$200.

Seriously, the high dollar harness comes with all the extras you'll need for A/C, electric fans/wipers/windows and all the stereo equipment anyone would ever need. You get all the connectors and (I believe) a large fuse block with modern spade-type fuses. I went with the cheap one since I plan to have all (non-motor) accessories on a separate power source. And yes, they really are easy to install. Match the numbers, follow the colors; and you're done.

I fabricated a new mount for my alternator from 1/4" straight stock and a hunk of angle iron. One of the water pump bolts holds the top bracket. I'm sure somebody makes the right item, but I'm cheap and the raw material was right there....

Yea $200.00 I guess I walked into that one. I am guessing the $300.00 is worth the extra money why the seperate power source? Are you going to use 2 batteries?

I recomend against crimp lugs, as they tend to detirorate quickly. Unless you have a proffesional crimping tool, it's also easy to over crimp, or crimp them wrong, and then it's even worse. They're also open, so the connections tend to corrode. I recomend you solder all the connections, then either wrap in electrical tape, or even better, use heatshrink tubing. If you do it this way, the wiring will probably outlast the truck.

As to the $100 vs 300, the difference is probably in quality. The cheap one likely uses cheap wires and connections, and will not last. The more expensive one will most likely use a thicker insulation, and better connections. The cheap one may also not have all the options, and could fit poorly. I once rewired a vw bug using a cheap harness, and the harness fit very poorly. Half the conectors were either to short, or where in the wrong place, so I practically had to rewire the rewiring kit! Since then, I've done my own. Most of it is easy, probably more so with the older trucks. The tail lights are very easy, just 3 wires, and the engine harness isn't much worse. The only thing you'll have a bit of trouble with would be the dash harness, and even then, it's just a matter of tracing the old wires out, then replacing them.
~John

Speaking of connectors, our local parts guys have some pretty trick ones. It's heat shrink, with solder in the middle. You just stick the wire ends in, hit it with some heat, and it solders and heat shrinks in one step. I'm sure you've seen 'em. Works great, only problem is it's a one shot deal. If you screw it up, the whole thing is wasted.
They come in all sizes colors, shapes. Just a thought!

Before you make your decision, contact Randy, moderator of this board fifthave@oz-online.net
He has a booklet he put together that will help you out.