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#87240 04/06/2004 1:21 AM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 19 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 19 | Well, lets try again. Has anybody out there successfully installed a power lock system in an A.D. truck door using stock latches? If so, how?
"Ah gots ta know!" | | |
#87241 04/06/2004 3:36 PM | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 115 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 115 | I've been meaning to revive this question myself, as I'm getting close to needing to be able to lock up my '52.
I did find out one thing since this question last came up... I think in the lounge... a few months ago. Yes, LMC does have a power lock kit listed in their catalog as fitting '47-'54 trucks. I called before I ordered it to ask specifically if it worked with stock latches and handles. The lady on the phone put me on hold to check with someone else, then returned to tell me that they did work with stock latches.
So I figured there must be some extra hardware or instructions in the kit. Wrong. It was just a standard kit for doors with a separate mechanisn for activating the lock. I called back again to complain, and after about three days received another call agreeing that they would not work with stock latches and that their catalog description was incomplete. Still waiting for the refund to show up on my credit card.
BTW, the lady told me that they had nobody at LMC that was knowledgeable about old trucks, that they were just a warehouse/shipping operation and that they had to refer tech questions to some outside source of information, which is why it took three days to get a good answer. I believe I'll stick to Chevy Duty, ACTP, Carter's and The Truck Shop from now on.
So...I have a couple of ideas about lost-motion linkages that I want to try out when I get time. I'm not sure if the typical small motor-driven lock actuators are strong enough, though. I picked up a power lock kit on eBay for cheap... turned out to be identical to the one from LMC except it has no remote... and I'll be trying it out when I get a round tuit.
In the meantime, I hope someone else has been playing with this problem and has something to offer.
Joe | | |
#87242 04/07/2004 6:27 AM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I'm still interested in this issue. Someone here suggested a way to do it, that I think looks good, but have not had a chance to try it.
I'm working on a Suburban, so I need to do the rear door too!
I have some of the motor driven selenoids, and I have some from a 70's Buick that I might try.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | |
#87243 04/08/2004 12:04 AM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 19 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 19 | Well Steve, our saga continues!! Do you have Barn or Clam Shell doors on yer 'Burb? Might I suggest you use what I found successful on my rear barn doors; a set of GM OEM contact switches found on the side sliding door of a 1993 GMC Safari. I'll look up the part # if you need. I found these to fit into the existing door cut out for the old stock switch, quite nicely!!
Also - what have you heard in regards to our pwr lock problems? I may have some other ideas as well...
Steve | | |
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