The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Maybellene, Gazz), 103 guests, and 4 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,096
Posts1,056,482
Members48,444
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 71
K
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
K Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 71
I tried to put my engine and transmission in yesterday and the transmission wouldn't go through the opening from the rear engine crossmember and the bottom of the cab. Do I have to remove this crossmember? If so, should I remove the rivets (its also the same ones that hold the brackets for the cab mounts), or should I cut it on each side flush with the frame rails? Will it need more structural bracing? I have the Mustang II crossmember up front so that helps some.


'53 Chevy truck 1/2 ton
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
Kevmor, you will need to notch your cross member. How much depends on what height you set your engine mounts relative to the frame. Either way, it is much easier to do by taking the cross member out.

Before removing, measure the clearance from a straight edge laying across the top of the frame rails to the top center of the cross member.

Then, take it out so you have room to install your tranny and use a jack to support the tail shaft and get it all lined up and looking pretty.

Now measure from the same straight edge across the top of the frame down to the location of the tailshaft mounting pad. The difference between this measurement and the first measurement is the amount you need to notch the cross member.

When I did a T400, I ended up notching about half way through the cross member. I cut a straight line 1/4 inch below where I wanted the tranny mount to be and then up at an angle to meet with the top of the cross member. Then I used 1/4" steel plate to weld into the areas where I removed the section of the cross member. I let the horizontal plate that the tranny mount would sit on hang off the back of the cross member and drilled two holes in it so that the bolts would go through it from the bottom and screw into the tranny mount (you will locate the holes for the tranny mount after you have slipped it back into position after welding the plate in place).

Wish I had pictures of what I have done, would be easier to show than to tell.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0