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'Bolter
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I will soon be tearing into the brakes of my 1941 1 1/2 military 4x4. The overall plan for the truck is restoration.

I have found a couple of places that can reline my wheel/master cylinders. One place uses brass, and the other stainless steel. Both are about the same in price. Which one is best? What are the pros/cons?


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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Stainless lasts a lot longer than brass, and there's no concern with corrosion. If the price is close to the same, go for the stainless sleeves.
Jerry


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'Bolter
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Thanks,

The folks at White Post Restorations resleeve with brass and claim that stainless can stain. Sounds like an oxymoron to me. They claim that brass is superior.

Since stainless steel is harder than brass, it would seem that it would resist scratching the cylinder walls.

Does anyone know the reactivity of stainless and aluminum (cylinder) vs. brass and aluminum?


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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Yes, stainless steel will discolor somewhat. If you plan to pass the truck on to your great-grandchildren, they might have to think about doing a little polishing on the cylinder surfaces when they rebuild the brakes. Before then, I don't think it will be much of a concern. We ran dozens of miles of 4" stainless steel thinwall pipe when I was working for Gallo Winery in the late 1970's, and I'll bet the majority of it is still there, with a bare minimum of corrosion.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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'Bolter
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Jerry,

Thanks for the input, will go with the stainless steel.

Paul


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Go stainless, if you ever have to rebuild it again, you can run a brake cylinder hone with out worries.

Mine had already been done before with stainless insert.

I just did mine quick and easy with stainless insert.

Cleaned up great without removing any material.


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'Bolter
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Thanks guys,

With your input, I am planning to go stainless with the master and wheel cylinders. I want to get my parts reconditioned versus from unknown cores. I have a set of CNC bent stainless brake lines complete with rock guards. I don't want to play Russian Roulette with a single reservoir system.

I will be taking the drums/hubs off today to see what I have. Three of the four wheels don't turn by hand, so it may be a frustrating day. I hope the adjustmant screws are not frozen.

Paul


1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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The only thing I've heard is stainless requires a tighter pressfit to keep the sleeve from moving. In a situation were the cylinder wall is relatively thin, that could be an issue.

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'Bolter
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I saw one of the wheel cylinders with the stainless sleeve. I didn't have any measuring device, but the sleeve looked to be about 1/16 inches thick. Where could the sleeve move if it was loose in the cylinder?


1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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Wrench Fetcher
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Only within the bore. If the pressfit is correct, it is fine.


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