The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Long Term Damage?

Well, I finally found a used 235 for my ’56 3200 and installed it a few weeks ago. The old 235 was blowing smoke, spewing oil all over the clutch (which chattered enough to knock your fillings out) and generally showing its age. The used one that I got for 200 bucks (with a clutch still installed) burns zero oil, spews nothing out the tailpipe, and the clutch engages smoothly. Now the bad news. The number 1 cylinder only has about 50 pounds of pressure when tested, and squirting oil into it makes no difference which suggests to me a valve issue. Since it drives so well, I am quite happy to just buzz around in it the way it is. I also am at the end of my “toy money” so I really don’t want to sink any more time/money into it right now. My only concern is long term damage. Will I be wrecking something if I continue to drive it this way? I only put a few hundred miles a season on it, as it goes into storage before the big freeze hits. Any advice?
Thanks!
Stephan

Jerry

test

Not sure what is going on, but I will try posting again!
I just put in a used 235 into my '56 3200. The old one was shot, and I picked up a used one, with a clutch still attached for 200 bucks. It runs OK, burns no oil, spews no smoke and the clutch is smooth (unlike the old one which chattered so hard you could lose your fillings). The bad news is that when I ran a compression test, cylinder #1 only has 50 psi, and squirting in oil made no difference. This suggests a valve issue to me. As the toy budget is already shot for the year, I am quite content to just drive around with it the way it is. I only put a few hundred miles a year on it anyways, as it gets put away well before the big freeze comes. Is there some long term harm that will come about if I keep driving it this way? As always, the advice I get here means a lot to me.
Thanks!
Stephan

If it's a sticky valve you might bend a push rod. If it's just a worn valve seat or rings then I don't see any harm.......lot's of old low compression motors out there still racking up miles.

We'll see what the more experienced engine guys here have to say.

Hy Stephan, I agree with what sleeve said, if it's just a poor seating or burned valve then no bad long term effects, until the toy budget is replenished, hope that helps.

Run a heavy dose of lightweight solvent-type oil additive, maybe Marvel Mystery Oil or something similar to address the possibility of a sticky valve guide. Also be sure the valves are adjusted correctly. A tight valve can have a major influence on compression pressure and general smoothness of operation.

You can also do a "cylinder leakdown test" where air pressure is put into the cylinders one at a time through the spark plug hole with the piston at top dead center and the transmission in gear with the brakes locked or the rear wheels chocked. Listen at the carburetor, tailpipe, and oil filler for air leaks. If a valve is burned or rings are bad, you'll hear a leak at the appropriate place. Lots of engines have run for years with low or even no compression on a cylinder or two- - - -it just drops the power somewhat and makes for a rough idle.
Jerry

Probably with your described light and intermittant loads no harm will result.
I have repaired burned valves where the stem diameter was greatly reduced and not far from breaking just under the valve head because of the torch like effects from a leaking valve.Usually this is on hard working engines where exhaust temperature is high.
One thing sure, when you lose a valve head the cost of living goes up sharply.

Thanks for the advice! I will run some stuff through it, and make the suggested tests. In the meantime, I will do what I always do (slowly putter around).

Stephan