The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Stuck in gear onThree in the tree on a '54 1/2 ton

Sometimes when shifting out of second, it doesn't want to come out. If I drive it in second for a few seconds then it will. Is this a leakage problem or an internal trans problem?

John

most likely linkage - you should open the box on the lower column, clean it out and insure it's adjusted properly and the spring isn't broken - re-grease it and see the improvement .... also make sure when you're shifting you follow the H sharply, don't be sloppy or you round off the corners of the forks in that box and the sticking in gear gets worse

Bill

Thanks Bill.
That was what I thought. I do shift the proper H but I have just changed transmissions and this is a new thing. I'll start with a good clean and regrease.
John

Do as Bill suggests. Here are the adjustment procedures.

Rebuilt shifter boxes are available.

Unfortunately, if that does not fix It, there are a variety of other things that contribute to cause this problem. These are lower probability problems: worn or missing parts like shifter forks/levers, detent balls, and synchronizers (I have been told - I know nothing about the insides of transmissions).

I had finally gave up and switched to an SM420 4-speed.

I got a few extra years out of my 3-speed (after getting a rebuilt shifter box) by being careful to never shift from 3rd directly to 1st - shift (with the clutch depressed) from 3rd to 2nd and then from 2nd to 1st.

Good luck.

there ya go - if it's a different trans you may need to check and adjust the length of the rods from box to trans - with it open have someone shift slowly and watch how the forks are positioned in the different gears and make sure the trans arms are actually fully engaging - adjust with the clamp joints on the arms that come off the side of the box

Bill

Thanks again.
When I opened the cover, it was "packed" with grease, maybe too much?
I will attempt an adjustment tomorrow. If all else fails I'm going with Tim's idea. 4 speed!
Thanks guys!
John

If shift box cleaning doesn't do the trick and you believe the trans is at fault, why not just have the trans you already have rebuilt. I am having my trans currently rebuilt and modded to prevent third gear drop out for $350. I just think the three on the tree is so cool and unique that I hate to hear people give it up when switching to superior 4-speed

I'm with you on that one David. I learnt to drive on a three in the tree, it is cool.
I'm making adjustments today. i am thinking of rebuilding the other three speed I took out. Both the trans I have drop out of third. There's a locate old timer who rebuilds for around $450.00
John

Okay. if anyone is still following, I disconnected the linkage at the trans, removed the universal so I could spin the output shaft. I cannot get this trans out of second. Tried moving the first and reverse lever in case it wasn't in neuteral, second/ third lever will not move.
Internal issue?? I am thinking so.
If you have any suggestion? Time to rebuild?
John

Rebuild it is.
Took the side cover off to find two pieces of what would be half a synchronizer ring.
Even opened up, it would shift.

My LD Muncie is in for rebuild now. The shop owner knew about the dropping out of third problem and asked if I want to spend the extra money to ensure the problem never happened again. I said yes and the total quote was $350. I have another post that explains the third gear permanent solution.

I should ship mine to your guy. The guy here wants $800.00 now.

Rebuilds on three speeds are not that bad if you want to try it yourself. I have rebuilt a 4 speed and it is not that bad if you are methodical and take your time.

If what you guys term as "dropping out of third" is having your tranny go into neutral by itself. Then i believe you have worn out 2nd/3rd gear sychronizer. Sometimes the brass insert in these drums just gets too much wear and wont keep the gear pulled into the drum. Or, thru speed shifting, sometimes the brass insert (which is just staked in) is pulled out of the drum. In the old days some would silversolder/braze them in (careful with the heat). If the i.d.s are worn too big, you can seat them a little closer to the gear (maybe grind a little off their length on the gear side)) and re-stake them a little less deep in the drum. I hope I've said what I actually mean! These brass inserts are a short cone shape.

Can synchro drums still be found? I think the '55 thru '64 synchros have different low/reverse splines but maybe they can be swapped into the earlier '54 and back cases when used as a complete gear/drum unit. The gears will swap-just use the complete sets together. There were the 2.94 low six cylinder sets; the 2.54 low V-8 set and the 2.20 low Corvette V-8 set. clutch gear, cluster, and second gear would make a set. In the 60's you could get a set from the chevy house for about $75. I knew a chevy parts man who put the corvette set into a 'XX thru '47 pickup box and with a little tail shaft machine work used it with his torque tube rear end. I'd cry if I ever broke that box!

In high school, I had a Hurst in my '54 chevy and would at times pull the thin shifting ring off the end of the drum. Between me and the 261, we could go thru some trannys, I was tough on the synchros, and the 261 was tough on teeth and shafts!