The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop dosent seem to fire right?

hi guys so i have a 53 burb with a 56 235.. 12v system. at first my gal needed to be choked cause the vac ad wasent working so i changed that
.i was having fuel delivery issues due to junk in tank, i shook it out and rebuilt the carb.

still running rough

I just changed the points and condenser.

just to be sure im not having a fuel delivery prob now, im using a gas can with gas and a hose.

timing set on the circle, but shes acting like shes strving for air..I can even close the idle needle and she will still run..

i havent changed the plugs yet. they are black, but not oily

I pulled the plug wire off the #1 and its got a big orange spark, and #2 n 3 I had to put the wire right next to the fender brace to see a spark, they looked blue i think?

plugs? coil? points too wide? ( im preety sure i set them at .018
)

Hy drew_vigil, put a vacuum gauge on it and tell us how it behaves when idling, reving up, and closed throttle coasting down from higher r.p.m.

vacuum leak? check the float level, and float drop. Check the carb again. All I know is mine ran like crap for about 3 months I changed the entire ignition system, tried 2 different carburetors, had them both apart about 300 times. Tried pertronix, 3 times I put it in and took it out (it runs better without the pertronix) checked the timing about 30 times.I even made a set up to check how much fuel pressure I had. I did have a little tiny chunk of rust in the fuel pump, I had been using an inline filter (more like a strainer) before the fuel pump, after I had changed the fuel tank,(but not the filler neck, which has to be where the little chunk of rust came from) so after some indeterminate period of time I replaced the fuel line to the pump, and as there was no place to put a filter without cutting up my new fuel line, I took it out. Some time later is when I discovered the chunk of rust in the fuel pump, that is the point at which I dug out my fuel pump with the glass bowl and a dandy screen in it then one day it just started running flawlessly. I still have no idea what was wrong, I am just glad it is. These trucks are old, maybe they just need time to heal.

lol.. NO! dont tell me you had to mess with yours for three months!i cant be down another week lol... she was running great, I was driving her 80 to 100 miles a day before the advance went out..
wouldent a vacuum leak cause it to run better when choked? Id had a vac leak at the vac advance. I kept having to drive with choke pulled.- but now she wants more air, or im thinking she dosent need more air, just more spark to ignite all the fuel

If it will idle with the mixture screw turned all the way in, it is running a way too rich. This will cause the plugs to be black.

The only way to really look at the spark is with a spare plug, connected and laying on a steel surface.

so i put in new plugs, gaped them .035 she running a lil better. should i change the coil as well?

Your plugs can tell you some things about how it is running, sometimes. After having been run for a while they should not be wet, oily or sooty on the insulator or gap. How does it perform on the road?

Can you post a pic of the plugs you removed Drew?

Also, as 3B says, a vacuum gauge can be a great tool for tuning up an engine.

lol so i think the culprit was my jet sitting in the bowl!. Im not positive that was the ONLY prolem, i have to wait till my gal gets home so I can jump start her up cause i killed my battery trying to fire.. thanks for your help eveyone!!!