The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 lift points

Hey guys,

I am nearing completion on my 1956 235 rebuild, and I have a question. The manual says to lift via two head bolts, but as I've just installed a new copper head gasket, I would hate to remove any head bolts to lift.

I think I've read here before that people have used an intake bolt and water pump bolt, or maybe two of the bolts that hold the lifter assembly in to lift the motor in a pinch.

My question is, is there any safe way to lift an engine/bellhousing for installation? the motor is going into my 1959 3100, that still has fenders installed.

Thanks, Vince

I just did this and had the same question. I went back through the archives and the advice I followed was to use head bolts. Get a pair that are about an inch longer than the existing bolts and use those to lift. I had no issues with the head gasket at all (I did it this way on a flathead, too). From what I've been told, that is much safer than trying to use the manifold or some other attaching point.

I don't like the idea of disturbing the head bolts either although the old shop manuals show just that. When I recently set my 261 and bell housing I left off the fuel pump and manifolds. I fabricated a steel attaching point that used both bolts at the fuel pump location on the block and then another using two manifold bolt holes at the rear of the head. This gave me two good diaginal attaching points and the motor went in easily with a tilt mechanism attached to these points. An old bed sheet kept the chains from scratching the fresh engine paint. Once the motor was set in went the fuel pump and in./ex. manifolds and I was good to go.

........How I did it anyway

Using the head bolt holes puts a straight-up pull on two 1/2" diameter bolts. If a short piece of 2" angle iron is bolted to the top of the cylinder head with slightly longer bolts than the head bolts that were removed, a VERY secure attachment point for the lift chain is created. I use a piece of 5/16" chain and clevises at the angle iron brackets. Putting sideways shear forces on small-diameter bolts is temptong fate. Dropping an engine as unweildy and heavy as a stovebolt 6 just isn't an option. That's how fingers end up missing!
Jerry

Thanks guys. I guess I'll just pull two bolts and hope for the best. I have to assume that the other 15ish head bolts will keep everything cinched down tight.

BTW, does anyone know how long of bolts I'll need? I know they're 1/2" fine thread, will 6"ers be long enough?
Vince

They're 1/2" coarse thread- - -1/2"-13. 1/2" fine thread is 1/2"-20, and will not engage the block threads. Back in a minute, and I'll give you a measurement.


The short bolts along the manifold would need to be 1/2"X4" to attach a piece of chain and still have a safe thread engagement into the block. The longer ones under the valve cover would need to be 1/2"X6". If the chain is bolted directly to the block without using a piece of angle iron, use a couple of heavy flat washers under each bolt head on top of the chain link.

Jerry

Jerry,

This is the fifth inline 6 with clutch and bell housing I've done this way, one International, two Fords and two Chevy's all of them boat anchor motors (as far as weight goes) taken out and reinstalled with no hint of a problem. Using two bolts per anchor point and plate steel adapters eliminates any worry of shear. My ongoing concern is always the hydraulics in the jack in the lift which is why I never get a hand or fingers between the motor and and anything solid regardless of engine mounting points. No need to really anyways on these nice old inline motors just a push or a prod with a stick if need be will get them to sit nicely in there mounts


-Mike-

Mike, I'm sure you have a lot of experience doing things safely, but especially on the internet, there's no telling who might be reading our advice. My 30+ years of dealing with teenage kids in a shop situation has taught me that the absolute safest way to do something is just barely adequate once it's been filtered through the attention span of some people. I've seen engines lifted in ways that would send a safety engineer screaming in panic. Some people cheated fate, others got permanently disabling injuries. Given a choice between a surefire safe method, and one that might be marginal, or could be hazardous if done just slightly incorrectly, I'll pick (and advise) the idiot-proof one every time!

Some time ago, an idiot on this forum advocated hooking an engine lift chain into a cast iron water pump inlet, and got his panties in a wad when I called his hand on that stupidity. I hope I might have saved someone from a crippling accident by pointing out the danger involved in that method.
Jerry

Jerry,
Point taken ! Mechanics for me is only a hobby, building is my trade and has been for 40 years using cranes to move and set steel and timbers of all sorts, girders, trusses, I beams etc, all done with saftey in mind and no accidents to date. I completely agree that things do get lost in translation on the job site or in the work shop so no I don't want to encourage anyone to go beyond their skill level and just want everyone to stay safe and enjoy these great old trucks.

-Mike-

I am lifting the engine/tranny out of the '52 this weekend. I plan to follow the service manual and use the head bolts to lift the engine. No way that sucker is going to fail using (longer) head bolts.

Thanks a TON HRL, you saved me a trip to the hardware store with the measurements. Much appreciated!