The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Setting The Timing on a Chevy 235

I'm sure this question has been asked many times. Im also leaning as i go so bare with me. I have a 53 chevy truck with a 58 235 motor, its running really rough and i want to recheck the timing with a timing light. What mark do i use from the flywheel? I know there is a triangle and bb. Do i have to mark it with a chalk? Can someone please go over in detail to successfully accomplish this, thanks

Time it to the ball

It helps to paint the ball white.

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disconnect and plug the vac line at distributor.


I use a Vac gauge also to set my mixture screw on my Carter YF at the same time.


Then set the fast idle with a tach
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here is what mine sounded like when I had the carb mixture screw not set correctly
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Mine is a 1954 235, so only use above as reference. You will need to get your settings from your shop manual.

Hopefully some of the more experienced Bolters will answer up with more specific instructions

Thanks, I'm in the process of getting a dwell meter, and a vacuum gauge to tune the engine. Right now it sounds straight out like a tractor. Not to get off topic but i suspect there is something serious other than timing. There is popping coming from the exhaust and i disconnected the 1 spark plug wire the engine died, I tried it with all others and the engine kept running. Any ideas why this is happening?

Have you done a compression test and a valve adjustment? Actually, the valves should be adjusted before checking compression, not after. A few tight valves will make an engine run really rough, even with a good ignition system and correct timing. Exact clearance measurements aren't vital right now- - - -just be sure the rocker arms have a little slack when each piston is near the top of its compression stroke.

The exact compression pressure isn't terribly important, as long as it's somewhere in the 75-100 PSI range, but dramatic differences from one cylinder to another can indicate serious internal trouble- - - -burned valves, blown gaskets, broken rings, etc. If the compression is adequate and close to uniform, you've got a good base to work with. Then address concerns about timing, etc. Don't forget to check the point gap. Also, be sure the firing order is right. It should be 1-5-3-6-2-4, in the clockwise direction looking at the top of the distributor cap.

Edit: Is there still a 1/4 mile dirt race track at Watsonville? I used to race there back in the late 1970's.
Jerry

Have not done a compression test/valve adjustment. The comp test i got down, but the valve adjustment i'l have to do some investigating since im new to all that. Right now im waiting for the comp test to see if its even worth the investing in this motor. It got dark so il get to it tomorrow. YES THE RACE TRACK IS STILL THERE. SAVE THE SPEEDWAY!!

If the 235 is out of a '58 car, I think it will have hydraulic lifters, and should not require any adjustment....

Kurt

I haven't got around to timing yet,it runs really well as is but when I do I'm wondering if my flywheel marks and pointer will still line up, my bell housing and flywheel are 1945 my motor is 1958 so I'm wondering if everything will still reference correctly with this mix and match swap?

Rotate the engine so that the points are just opening when #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke at TDC, and the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug terminal, and the ball on the flywheel should be at or near the pointer in the bell housing. Might need to clean the flywheel with some brake clean or something to be able to see the ball clearly

Kurt.

Thanks for the help. I got the timing set and i installed new spark plugs. The truck is running much better. Unfortunately the compression test gauge i borrowed is not the best and i dont trust it. Im getting very low readings.

It was suggested earlier to check your valve lash.

Also did you determine if you have mechanical or hydraulic lifters?

If your not sure post you engine s/n from the pad next to the distributor. There are members here That can give you information on your 235 from that number

Good luck

Sorry for the delay, been busy with work. DADS50 here is the number next to the distributer-FO417JC, i would like to know if im running solid or hydraulic lifters. I plan on replacing the valve stem seals. I got myself a new compressor tester and i got these readings- 1-125, 2-110, 3- 108, 4-120, 5-125, 6-110.

Hopefully someone will be along soon to run the number for you.

FO417JC

F = Flint, MI assembly plant
JC - 4000 series or 3100, 3200, 3800 series with RPO 227 (heavy duty clutch?)

If you want to confirm the year, find the head and block date codes.

Based on what Tim says, sounds like you have a 235 truck engine, which would have come with solid lifters.

Kurt