The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
1 members (Truckrolet), 510 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,777
Posts1,039,268
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#848469 05/02/2012 10:27 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
Working on various old trucks now, I've noticed there can be a big difference between what type of metal trim is used outside a vehicle as well as inside.

So, how can one tell the difference between aluminum and stainless parts? I'm no metalurgist by far, and I have seen some pieces off my '72s that I couldn't decide what they were made of?

Dull stainless can look like aluminum to me. Polished aluminum looks far different than dull. How do you tell whether or not a piece is just chromed pot metal or not if it's 60 years old without pitting and it's non magnetic?

There are various clues that are pretty easy to see, but I've ran into some odd ones with one person telling me it's aluminum and another stainless. Obviously corrosion damage, pitting, staining and patinas are indicators depending on the how and whats involved.

What about the stuff your not sure of?

Thanks, Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 457
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 457
Boy, I thought I could answer that. And, the more I thought about it, it's not that easy. I can tell the difference, but it is not easily described. A few clues: Stamped aluminum parts are soft, check an edge. Easily burned with hard buffing. Cast aluminum will have casting marks on back. Stainless is tough, and you can buff it easily (you can overheat it, and damage it, but not like aluminum.) It's rarely cast, will be stamped. Pot metal parts will be die cast, not stamped. And mostly chrome plated, but I'm sure there exceptions. Usually used for decorative emblems, ornaments, etc. Newer cars used anodized aluminum trim (thinking my '62 Chevy) and little, if any stainless. Emblems were chrome plated die cast pot metal.


1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC"
A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
B
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
You can tell aluminum by putting a flat file to an edge. Aluminum will file very easily, stainless will not.


~Jim
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 103
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 103
another way would be to touch a magnet to it. a magnet won't stick to alumimim.

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,501
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,501
Stainless can go both ways according to alloy, magnetic or not.


1941 Chevy stock complete
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
As a metallurgist and a car guy, you asked a really tough question to explain.

It's always a good idea to touch it with a magnet, that can rule out aluminum and many stainless steels if it isn't magnetic.

As was already mentioned, you can tell the difference in the way the parts are formed. A stamped part on these trucks will most likely (although not always) be stainless.

As far as pitting, Aluminum is very resistant to corrosion damage, so if the part has corrosion or pitting it's more likely it's stainless steel or pot metal.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,383
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,383
Originally Posted by bens48bigbolt
a magnet won't stick to alumimim.
It won't stick to higher quality stainless either.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Tiny #848884 05/04/2012 6:49 PM
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
Originally Posted by Tiny
Originally Posted by bens48bigbolt
a magnet won't stick to alumimim.
It won't stick to higher quality stainless either.

It depends on the specific stainless steel alloy as well. And if an austenitic stainless (say 316) is cold worked (like stamping, for instance), it can become magnetic.

Last edited by 46gmcpu; 05/04/2012 6:51 PM.

1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket

Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.307s Queries: 14 (0.045s) Memory: 0.6279 MB (Peak: 0.6999 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 06:01:39 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS