The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop lifting a engine

Getting ready to take the engine an tranny off the truck frame, hopefully this week. I borrowed a cherry picker from my neighbor last night. It's a 235 with a SM420 tranny.

Now, here's the rookie question...DON'T LAUGH! Where do I attach the chains to the engine to lift?

Be gentle with any responses!

I did the same 235/420 combo pull two months ago. I connected the chains to cylinder head bolts. I believe that's customary. I pulled the rocker arms etc first.

Keith

This is illustrated in the shop manual. They suggest using two headbolt locations, one on either side. Also one should be back further than the other and the center between the two a little forward of block center. This will give you some control to change the angle that it lifts at. Never get any part of your body between the motor and the floor while it is suspended. In addition, plan your moves so that you can reverse a step if it doesn't work.

Pulling most engines for the first time is pretty much like trying to follow a Greek road map. Make sure all bolts connecting it are loose and take it slowly so you won't damage anything when you discover you missed unbolting something. I speak from experience unfortunately...

I took mine out together as well. Some pics in the engine rebuild photo album. Front and rear head bolts work well.

http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer

If you are trying to remove the engine from a one ton truck I doubt the transmission can remain attached.

I tried and failed because there was no room between the cab floor and the cross mount that connects to the bellhousing for the transmission to squeeze through; so I had to disconnect the SM 420 transmission, then pulled the engine.

If you are working on a half ton, I was successful pulling the two components (transmission and engine) together.

I had to unbolt the tranny on my 3/4 ton.

Because the 4 speed tranny sandwiches the crossmember between it and the bellhousing, you will have to pull it.

I use a 1" hawser tied around the bellhousing and balancer pulley to move my engines. I hate messing with head bolts.

Whatever you do, watch your toes. Cherry pickers can be very unstable.

I take a steel plate & drill 2 holes in it to fit the coil mounting holes. Then drill a larger hole in the other end. Bolt it to the coil holes with grade 8 bolts & hook one end of the chain to the bracket. Wrap the other end around the rear part of the intake manifold. If the manifold is off use one of the bolt holes. It,s best to leave the trans in or pull it separatly.

I'm also getting ready to pull a 216 with stock tranny and install a 261 with the same tranny back into my coupe.

You also need a load leveler, especially if you pull it with the tranny attached.
Just use the cherry picker with the main arm pulled out the least you can get away with.
The further you pull it out, the less load capacity and more instability you get.

Here is what the shop manuals from the 30s to the 60s suggest for Engine removal

Engine and stock 3 speed tranny combined weight is about 730 lbs.

Maybe try that used engine hoist first on something with similar weight, to make sure it doesn't leak or starts sagging after just a few minutes under load.....

(Note to self:)
Even if everything looks OK with the equipment - always be prepared it could fail and keep all body parts clear and safe out of the way.
...and of course, don't open the beers before but after the job is done

It's out! Kinda simple actually. Used 4 "I" bolts on top of the head. Since the only thing on the frame is the engine and tranny, I came in from the side, lifted it a couple of inches just enough to clear the top of the frame and WALA! Took only a few minutes.

Thanks for the support, especially opening the beers after and not before.

When I did my 55-3/4 I noticed that someone 40-45 years ago or so had cut a vertical slot in the lower center of the firewall.This is in the tranny area. I believe when the truck was fairly new the engine/tranny was pulled and after cutting that slot they folded back that area to make pulling the tranny easier...Possibly. done by a dealer..when completed that piece was folded back in place.

I'm still not sure what I'm going to do when I replace the engine/trans. Separately or together.
Might not be bad separately if I can raise up the tranny from underneath. You'll then have to play that game lining up the spline with whatever it lines up with...been a while..did it 25 years ago..

Keith