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| | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | Stick it to the block or to the pan? From what I've read on the forum, the preferred way is to apply it to the block. I'm finding that if I apply it to the pan with a gasket cement, then go to install it, I keep knocking the front end gasket slightly out of whack. Maybe if everything is cemented to the block and the grooves in the main bearings at either end, I won't have this problem.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | i arrange it that this is done at the end of the day. i glue the gasket to the block using the bolts to orientate the holes and hold it in place. i preform the cork strips to the radius that they will end up in. the next day i glue groove and seat the strips. i add a dab of rtv where the gasket and the strips meet then put the pan on and tighten evenly. never had a leak with this method. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | 51 ashton that should be in the tech archives! Great method and description.
Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | When you say cork strips are you talking about the end gaskets? Because mine are rubber. The side pieces are made of cork, but the ends are rubber and very flexible.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 | Joe - have you tried oil pan snap-ups? they make the job ridiculously easy. SNAP-UPS everything stays put while you run the pan bolts in and you can fine-tune the gasket a bit as you tighten things up tom | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | Tom,
It looks like those are used for the cork side gaskets, correct? What I'm having trouble with is the end gasket at the front. When I move the pan into position, I somehow manage to dislodge the gasket just a bit. That's when it occurred to me that I should do it the other way round: gasket to block.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 | yes - for the cork.. i wasn't clear that was your problem. maybe you can consider a hybrid approach and combine the snap-ups with 51 Ashton's technique of gluing up the rubber end seals? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | I'll have no problem cementing the cork side gaskets to the block. I will probably use the oil pan bolts to align it. I imagine a good gasket cement will keep the rubber end pieces in place but I just wanted to know how other guys have done it.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 239 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 239 |
Theres a real good tech tip in the archives called "•Oil Pan Gasket Replacement in your 216 / 235 Engine"
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
-Unknown-
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | Thanks. That's everything I need to know.
Last edited by joeflanagan; 04/09/2012 6:00 PM.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | So I followed the procedure in the tech tip and the problem is solved. Not a single drop of leakage from my oil pan now. Thanks to all who responded.
1956 Chevy 3200
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