| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,067 Posts1,055,877 Members48,428 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 420 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 420 | i have a lot surface rust on my 46 half ton, between the bed and back of cab when I started sanding the paint off, the rust is still ruff after I sanded on it, is there a way to smooth that out or do i just hit it with a grinder until its gone? its pretty deep into the metal, need a little body help on this one
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | There is a thread running over on the HAMB right now about rust removal and the different types of converters guy's have used. I found a Phosphoric acid based product is one of the most common and least aggressive on the metal but there are all kinds for all types I guess. It may be the easiest way to go for your situation but be warned depending on what type of primer you use you can run into adhesion problems if the acid is not neutralized and dealt with properly. I see the plus side being you can get it into the pitted area where a wire wheel or grinder won't reach. Neutralizing the acid while it's still wet is key. So if you follow the directions and let it dry, then sand/wire wheel the residue off then reapply and while still wet wash with plenty of water you should be safe. Plenty of guys just sand off the residue or even leave it and then apply their rustoleum or what ever but with certain brands of Epoxy that is asking for trouble down the road unless the 'while still wet' neutralizing takes place. The nice thing I found with the epoxy is I can just keep laying it on and filling those pits until everything is smooth. It also is water proof and it also encapsulates and bits you may have missed (I found its cheaper than Por-15 to boot).
In the end it sort of depends on your intentions for the truck as to how deep down the hole you want to go....
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 | We may be talking about the same thing but i used Evapo-rust that I bought from Harbor Freight. It used it to convert the surface rust on the bottoms of my doors. I put it in a spray bottle, sprayed it on, let it sit, and washed if off w/ soap and water. Worked well...took care of all the rust and allowed me to scuff and prime. It's pretty inexpensive...and environmentally friendly. Best of luck. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 1 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 1 | Have any of you guys ever tried a product called Rust Bullet? Seems easy & I was wondering what you guys thought about it. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 28 | Never tried Rust Bullet. I'm a POR-15 fan...the stuff is pricey, but works really well. You have to make sure your surface is prepped correctly and free of any contaminants (oil, grease, etc) or the stuff will peel off and your time and money goes with it;-) | | |
| |
| |