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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3
'
Junior Member
Junior Member
' Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3
Hi everyone,

It's been awhile since I was here, but it's also been awhile since I've looked at my project. I finally found the parts I've been searching for over 2 years for.

Anyway my question is, do the U-bolts that hold the rear axle assembly to the trailing arms come out without torching them? I penetrating oiled the heck out of them. I tried with an impact, a breaker bar and pipe, and heating the nuts with a torch and turning with an impact. I got one to come all the way to the end of the threads and stop, and another to just start loosening. I had the nuts glowing red hot, and they still don't want to come off.

I bought a 1972 C10 chassis, and want to swap the rear end into my 1966 C10. I don't have a problem with buying two new U-Bolts for my 1966. I intended to anyway. But at $15.00 to $20.00 each, I'd like to save two old ones so I can put the 1966 rear end back into the 1972 frame to be able to roll it around. It seems a waste to put $30.00 to $40.00 into a frame I have no use for.


Thanks for any tips and/or advice you can offer. I've never had nuts/bolts this stubborn before, and these aren't even rusty.

Thanks,
Tom

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
As a general rule they don't like to come off in one piece.

U bolts and the nuts should not be reused to start with. I have not read anywhere that it's OK to reuse then, and I have read plenty of places that once removed they should be discarded and new installed.

In your case they are being stubborn, that makes the decision easier to throw them away and buy new, the safe choice.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3
'
Junior Member
Junior Member
' Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3
Thanks guys.

Yes, the breaker bar is a Snap-On, so it is under warranty. However, I certainly don't want to bend it like you said may happen. That thought never crossed my mind, next time I'll use a cheaper breaker bar in case I do bend it.

I may try splitting the nuts, that never crossed my mind to try. Thanks for the tip.

I don't intend to reuse the bolts and nuts for anything other than making the 1972 frame roll so it's easy to move. I plan to buy new ones for my 1966 frame, but hate the thought of throwing $30.00 or $40.00 away to make a frame I have no use for rollable.

Thanks again,
Tom

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,868
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,868
Most tool distributors sell a nut splitter that makes the job a lot easier. It's a device that fits around the nut, and drives a wedge into the side of the nut with a jack screw. I've used one for a lot of years on shock absorber nuts and exhaust pipe clamps. Running a die down over the U bolt threads should allow you to re-use the bolts, particularly if you don't intend to put the vehicle back on the road.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Sometimes I like to drill down the side of the nut and then use the chisel.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3
'
Junior Member
Junior Member
' Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3
Thanks again for the tips guys. I'll give it a try tomorrow, and post how it turns out here. I appreciate you all taking the time to read and respond.

Thanks,
Tom

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,859
S
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,859
die grinder and chisel


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 117
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 117
I'm having the exact same problem with my 57... I have all 8 nuts off (3 BROKE off.lol) On the rear u-bolts, I am going to try to use my die grinder on them and see if I can get them to slide down through the top. I can't believe they are this rusted!
Dano


my truck gets better every day...every PAYDAY smile
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 117
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 117
I got my rear u-bolts and shackles apart today! Here's my reply in the other thread I started: http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=014764
Happy bolting! grin
Dano


my truck gets better every day...every PAYDAY smile
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4
J
Junior Member
Junior Member
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4
Maybe grind through the u-bolt on both sides of the u so there is basically two staight pieces of bolt with the u section removed. Then beat the bolt backwards through the trailing arm.
Not sure that works for you but it did for me.
Seems like a lot of my projects that should leave behind good leftover parts turn into projects that leave behind good leftover scrap metal.
I have been building piles of good leftover scrap metal for ahwile now and it gets easier to accept as time goes by.
GOOD LUCK,
JoeG.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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