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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
Hi,

I have the original manifolds on my 283. One is cracked and on the other side this little spring part between manifold and tubing is broken. Since they need to be replaced before I can go on I am now planning on installing headers. How about the bolts/mounting holes on the block? When the shop replaced the manifolds on my F250 they had massive problems with wornout mounting holes and broken bolts. Will it be as difficult with the 283? Any tips what I should do or mustn't do?

And which manifolds do you recommend?

My truck has a 4 speed manual floor shift.

For the carb question pls. look below... edited this post.

Thanks from overseas
Joern

Last edited by Joern; 04/05/2012 12:01 PM.

'65 C-20 Fleetside 283 4-speed-MT
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
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I have Hooker brand Competition series on two of mine, fit great.
They have nice thick flanges that don't warp.

Did your F250 have a 352-360-390 type engine? If so, you prolly won't have the issues that one had.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
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My F250 had a 289. It was a '97 model.

Thanks for the info, I've been considering the Hookers since I compared some headers at summit. What carb are you running? I need to replace mine also but don't have much experience since this is my first "old" truck project. The old one is obviously some rochester 2bbl that has turned out to be broken when I took it off for cleaning today. I want it to become a daily driver and consider either an edelbrock 600cfm or a holley 600cfm. But I am not really sure about the connections (pcv?) I have. What is what..?

Joern

Last edited by Joern; 04/02/2012 2:33 PM.

'65 C-20 Fleetside 283 4-speed-MT
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 698
J
Shop Shark
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J Offline
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I used the Hooker brand on my '65 283 and they installed very easy. I'm running an elderbrock 600 CFM carb (4 barrel) with a elderbrock intake.


My Fleet:
1941
1953
1959
1965
1966
1953 Willy's Pickup

John

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W
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These small block chevys don't usually have trouble with the manifold bolts. I would use the original type Ramhorn ex. manifolds. They are less hasle then headers & are floating around the swap meets & salvage yards cheaply. I would use an Edelbrock performer carb or Q-jet. The Q-jets are floating around the swap meets also for low prices. If you can rebuild one yourself it makes a great carb. Even the permormers are cheap used & are simple to go through.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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J
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If I stay with the stock rams horns, do I need this valve thing bolted between the right manifold and tubing? What is it good for? Am I right understanding it only to be a less important cold start "helper"?

I think I will go with the edelbrock since I can get one cheap. Will it work with the stock manifold and adapter?

Thanks for you help, important to me as always...


'65 C-20 Fleetside 283 4-speed-MT
Joined: Feb 2011
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Wrench Fetcher
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The valve thing you are refering to is called an heat risor and kinda like you said it help with cold starts. It blocks of the exhaust and forces it up through the heat crossover in the intake manifold and under the carb and prewarms the fuel and then out the LH exhaust.As the engine warms up the spring on the heat riser expands and opens the valve and allows the exhaust out. If you plan on driving the truck any time except the couple of hot summer months I would recomend putting it back the way it was. GM did a pretty good job engineering it to work. The heat risor valve is available new from places like CHevy Duty and Lmc.
With a complete factory system properly put together you should have a reliable setup.


65 K10 Longbox Fleetside Big Back Window Custom Cab
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J
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Edelbrocks on a stock manafold with an adapter plate tend to be a little sluggess at low RPMs but will work.


My Fleet:
1941
1953
1959
1965
1966
1953 Willy's Pickup

John

Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
J
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Ok, I've read a lot about headers and ramhorns. I think I will go with the stock rams. But where can I get matching downpipes which I can bolt directly to the rams to get a true dual exhaust? I want to do this because I have a lot of 2 1/2" ss pipe parts and 2 new borla mufflers laying in the garage. But I can't find angled connectors to the rams...


'65 C-20 Fleetside 283 4-speed-MT
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
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Shop Shark
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Muffler shop is about your only bet on downpipes.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
Update:

In the pics 283 - 1 , 283 - 2 ,
283 - 3 , you can see what I have. There is a valve at the distributor to te carb front, one tube routed from the backside of the carb to the power brake booster and one tube coming from the oil filler neck. Are they all for vacuum and is it correct that both valve cover caps and the oil filler cap are "breathers"? I am not really sure how it was OE and I don't have anything to compare over here.

Since am going to be installing the Edelbrock 1405 (I got a new one for $120.00), can someone help which tube is for what and where to connect?

Last edited by Joern; 04/05/2012 12:28 PM.

'65 C-20 Fleetside 283 4-speed-MT

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