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#838137 03/24/2012 4:37 AM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 45
B
New Guy
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I could use some tips on sealing up a leaky windsheild on my '49 , I put it in about 5-6 years ago and its leaked ever since . I don't want to remove it - would wrather just pull back the rubber and shoot something in to seal it IF anyone has done this and had success . What is used to seal this - I'm thinking something that won't get hard .

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J
New Guy
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I had my windshield (65) sealed with some unknown bituminous material. It didn't work as water found its way through the cracks into the cab. I removed it and had to spend a lot time in cleaning the frame. That was the only effect.
I bought a new seal from LMC which I put on the windshield and tried to get it back into place. Here my problems started: I used a pull cord to slide the seal into place. But it didn't really snap in. Now the seal is half on and I don't know what to do. Anyone any ideas?

Joern


'65 C-20 Fleetside 283 4-speed-MT
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by bears 38
I could use some tips on sealing up a leaky windsheild on my '49 , I put it in about 5-6 years ago and its leaked ever since . I don't want to remove it - would wrather just pull back the rubber and shoot something in to seal it IF anyone has done this and had success . What is used to seal this - I'm thinking something that won't get hard .

I'm not sure if it's available in the U.S. but I/we use a product called Arbomast here in my work.
It's a non setting,silicone free sealer designed specifically for this.
It's ideal for 'in situ' sealing.
You can squeeze the nozzle between the rubber and body and or rubber and glass,pump the sealer in,wet with glass cleaner and remove the excess/ooze with a plastic scraper and final clean up with shop panelwipes or paint shop de-greaser.
Plus it wont hurt your paint.
You could try contacting a local auto glass shop for their recommendations.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 03/26/2012 8:57 AM.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by tclederman
jockbolter50,

Would either of these products be OK?

Tim,in Bears situation,I would lean more towards the 3M compound.
It looks similar in composition to Arbomast.
It will be much easier to work with and the clean up simpler.
The first one looks more like a urethane based product,which has it's uses too,just messier to work with.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.

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