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| | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | The Classic Wiring Harness I have has the Light Switch Wire spliced into the main Batt circuit by removing sheathing of both wires and twisting them together and attaching the wires with a little solder than wrapped in electrical tape. It works, but is there a better way of doing this?
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | doesn't sound like a factory harness, but soldering is better than crimp connectors, and shrink tubing is better than tape .... I believe most years would originally have taken the light power off the ammeter or a fuse block
Bill | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | I was wondering that too about factory style, and after looking at it again under the dash I probably traced its power source wrong. As I stated in a different post, it is from Classic and should be right. I just don't like the connection that was made. And I wish I could shrink wrap it without having to separate it first. Thanks for your help though.
Last edited by DrewP; 03/23/2012 6:29 PM.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | not doubt it's "right" in terms of making the electrics for your truck work, and there's nothing really wrong with that type of connection, it's found on some newer factory harnesses, but it's not right in terms of being a true reproduction of an original ... if you disconnect 2 of the wires that go the same direction you might be able to slip a short section of the right size shrink tube over both wires and slide it along them to that joint
Bill | | |
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