The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Tightening steering or rebuild

My 1964 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 non power steering has quite a bit of play in the steering wheel. When i turn the steering wheel it doesn't start to turn the tires until I spin the steering wheel about a quarter turn.I was wondering if their is a way to adjust the steering gear box? Does anyone have instructions or pictures on how to do this. Or how hard is it to rebuild the steering gearbox?

also check the frame for cracks around the steering box check the str box for broken bolts. both will give that feeling of looseness. you may need someone to turn the steering wheel while you look at it
there should be an adj on top; nut with screw driver slot in stud. brgs may be shot.
this fellow will have parts for you,
www.ChevyPS.com
ron

I haven't looked real hard at the steering box on my '66 yet, but I haven't seen the adjustment nut on it. The only thing I see on top is the fill plug. I'll try to find the adjustment screw on mine today. I'm sure somebody here has adjusted theirs and has info for you.

George

There are generally two adjustment points. One is either directly opposite where the shaft from the steering wheel enters the box, or where the shaft enters the box. The other is directly opposite where the pitman shaft exits the box. This often is a screw within a nut configuration. Adjustment procedures are in the manual and can probably be found on the Internet, maybe even on this board. When I rebuilt my box, I seem to remember seeing it in a few places.

Mine was like that too. The adjusting screw is on the back side of the box next to the frame. It did no good.
I took it to a steering rebuilder nearby and they went throught it for only a hundred bucks or so. Money well spent!

I'll suggest a couple flex bars and six point sockets if you remove the box.

I don't think power steering was an option on the '60-'66 4x4's

The adjustment procedures should be in the 1963 chevy manual. I also would recommend checking the drag link which is the rod with a tie rod end on each end that connects the pitman arm to the steering arm on the axle. If it is the original most likely it is shot as it takes the most punishment driving over ruff roads. The way to check it is to have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch each end and you will see if the rod is moveing with out the ballstud. You must leave the tires on the ground for this so there is resistance. Also dont turn the steering wheel very far in each direction. Just a 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn each way. You will feel when the slop changes over to steering input and you dont want to turn the tires you just want to tag each end of the slop sone. Unfortunatly I havent found anywhere that sells a replacement draglink yet but I think with a little trial and error a person could built an adjustable one with two tierod ends and a sleeve, you just have to find tierod ends with the right diameter and taper to fit the steering arm and pitman arm. Good luck with your project as these are very cool trucks.

I forgot there is a company in Montana that specializes in 60-72 chevy and gmc trucks, in particularly rebuilding steering boxes including 4x4 manual steering boxes, that you might be interested in. The old guy's name is Don. The company is REZ Engineering. The phone number is (406)727-9267. Hope this helps. Lyle

The steering box itself might be worn out too.

I did some research and built a replacement drag link for 62-68 chevy four wheel drives with factory manual steering and factory front axle/steering arm. If you need one let me know.

I tightened the bolt on the the inside of the steering box.It seems to have tightened it up a little bit, but i didnt get a chance to take her for a spin to make sure.I let you know how it goes when i do this weekend thanks for the help.

By tightening that adjustment you put more pressure on the gears. If you put too much the wheels will not return to "straight" by themselves and you will have to pull them back. This usally results in oversteering and over correction. Something that will cause driver fatigue very quickly and is hazardous at high speed. This can get magnified if the box is in fact worn out. Be careful on your test drive and take it slow.

I took it for a spin around the block. It seems pretty tight now. I haven't taken it up past 20mph yet or on any straight a ways so im not sure how well it goes straight down the road.