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| | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | So, I'm about to put my darn 235 back together. I've even gone all out and bought some federalmogual assembly lube for the bearings. Do I want to use this stuff on the rings and cylinders, or should I just be using motor oil on the rings and cylinders? I'm using chrome faced NOS Chev rings, if that makes any difference, I dunno, I'm out of my element. I do know the packages for the rings say I don't even need to "Glaze-bust". I figure I should give 'em a little hone anyway.
Thanks everybody. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 71 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 71 | As many years as I've built engines.....just engine oil for cylinder walls! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | Mr Lang, I used chrome rings the first time I rebuilt my 235 and they slap wore out my cylinder walls in short order. At least I assumed it was the chrome rings. Have you ever heard about that happening? 2nd time I used standard rings. Maybe they were CI? Still going strong 25 years later.
I would just use motor oil for lubing the rings/pistons.
Kurt | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | I've never installed such fancy rings as these Kurt. Previous to today's adventure, I've only ever screwed around with Model T engines, with the 1/4" plain cast iron rings! The oil rings I put on the 235 pistons, were four pieces! Madness! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | Welcome to the 21st century, Mr. Lang!
Just oil on the cyl. walls & rings, and I would hone, too.
cm
If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | In my experience with a re-ring job you'll find that the cast rings will be more forgiving of a cylinder wall that is worn. They also seem to seal up better than a hard chrome ring. Either way a hone with a good scrubbing to get clean is in order. Then motor oil is best. Don | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,881 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,881 | Do a good crosshatch with a glaze breaker, or use a dingleberry hone if you have one. Don't believe the BS about not gleze-breaking. However- - - -and this is vitally important- - - -give the cylinder walls a thorough scrubbing with a stiff-bristle brush, scalding hot water, and detergent like Dawn or Tide, followed by lots of rinsing. I wore out a new set of rings in a Rambler flathead six on a 2,500-mile trip from California to Tennessee because of a bad cleanup after honing the cylinders during a re-ring job. By the time I got to Nashville, the engine was using 3 quarts of oil to a tank of gas, and when I tore it down, the oil ring expanders were rubbing the cylinder walls!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 121 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 121 | In addition to what Hotrod Lincoln said, which is excellent advice, I finish up the cylinders with the highest detergent oil I can get, wiping them with a white rag. Do this as many times as necessary until you get to the point the rag remains white. It is amazing the amount of crud left after scrubbing and cleaning with detergent. | | |
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