The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Ignition switch stuck "on"

The ignition switch on my '51 burb has become increasingly difficult to turn "off". It's like I am trying to turn the lock with the wrong key. If I play with it enough I can get it off, but sometimes it might take 5 or 10 mins.

I have started turning the key not quite all the way, which seems to energize the system without being in the fully "on" position. I just watch the gas gauge until it jumps.

Any idea for a fix for this? Could it be a worn key? or something in the lock?

Thanks,

Kurt

not likely to be the key - the switch itself could be falling apart, or the lock cylinder tumblers might be worn - remove the lock cylinder and check things out

Bill

I believe you could probably buy just the inside (keyed) part of the ignition witch and retain the outer housing. I did on my 1957, got it from Classic Parts.
don

Don,

Is it possible to rekey the inner part to match the existing locks on the truck?

Kurt

Might just need a shot of graphite to lube the tumblers.

Yes, it can be easily done. Even easier if you have a key for the other locks. If not, you need to remove a door lock cylinder. The key code is stamped on them. The ignition cylinder can then be pinned to match it.

Cletis,

Thanks for the info.

Another question. Did the glove box typically take a different key? The key I have will open the right door, rear barn door and work the ignition, but not the glove box.

Kurt

The glove box lock was probably added by the dealer or an earlier owner as an after market part. I've never seen a situation where one key did it all, but they are probably out there. The locksmith on Wake Forest Road at Whitaker Mill Road has done automotive locks for me in the past.

I'd definitely try the graphite first though. It heals a lot of problems.

Best wishes,

Les

Originally one key fit all locks on AD trucks.

Your glovebox lock may not work because your key is worn and the lock has had little use.

The ignition lock gets plenty of use so the pins in it wear down at about the same rate as the key wears. So the worn down key keeps working it. But it's not going to go into the right position on that un-worn glovebox lock.

I think my key is the definition of "worn down" .......

Kurt

So maybe if I had a "new" key it would work the glovebox and maybe solve the problem with my ignition lock? Somebody mentioned that the lock on the door should have a number on it that could be used to cut a new key. Who would be able to do this? any locksmith? Or back to the dealer, (who hasn't seen this truck in at lest 40 years).

Kurt

You may just need to remove the ignition and clean it and use a little graphite as suggested above.

If your door lock is original it will have the stamp code on it.(as Cletis posted)
...pic...

I took my door lock and a different original ignition I purchased from a fellow bolter to a local lock smith and he keyed them alike for me. I think he charged me 40 bucks.

My truck is no longer keyed to the code in that pic.

That being a 4 digit code, I guess the only had 10,000 different keys, assuming they started with 0000 and went to 9999.

Kurt

There were 1500 codes. They ran from 8000 to 9499. The same codes were used for all GM vehicles from 1935-66.