The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 Paint Color

Does anyone have a paint color code for the original color for a 216? I would like to by the paint locally instead of ordering it online. Also is there a specific color code for the black paint used on the frame and other engine components?

I just read an article re. The Filling Station and their research on the correct color for the various years. If you insist on factory correct check with them. Or you could shop around for a light to medium grey ? Chassis black is sold by lots of paint brands under various names like simi gloss, flat black etc. You could check with a local auto paint store.
Best of luck

Dark gray not light to medium gray, the original color was a dark gray which is what The Filling Station research has determined the 216 Chevy truck engines were paint with.

DG

1938 216 Paint from The Filling Station.

I purchased the engine paint for my 46 from the Filling Station. Its a very greenish gray. Is it correct? See my photo bucket to see what it looks like.

If this is the color Gene, its tha correct color for that engine.
http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/i470/GWWirth/?action=view&current=PICT0229.jpg

DG

The paint on my engine is actually closer in color to the pic Denny posted. The color in my pic shows correct on my computer but the upload to PB and download to view changes it a bit it seems.

So, I was wondering how close the original engine paint color was to the steering mast jacket color. Seems that the Rustoleum #7754 (anodized bronze) would be close. Oppinions?

The paint color for the steering mast jacket and engine are not close.

The engine color is a dark gray with just a tinge of blue. A bronze color wouldn't be any where close.

As Don says, not at all the same color David.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136174246/original

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Ok, Looks light I will be buying it from The Filling Station. Any opinions on spraying it with an aerosol can? Or do you get a much better product buying it by the pint and spraying it on?

Should be the same paint. Buying the rattle cans is more expensive for the amount of paint you get.

Agree with Richard, if you're set up to apply the paint with
your spray equipment then that's the cheapest. It will take a
couple of spray cans to do the whole engine, I found that to be
the easiest way to go.
DG

What was the original color for the thermostat housing? I have seen pictures the same as the rest of the engine and some different.

The paint I purchased from the Filling Station was Acrylic Enamel. I purchased a catylist from my local auto paint store. Not required but I think it will give you a longer lasting paint job.

LIGHT TO MEDIUM GREY WOULD BE FINE FOR A DRIVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pink would be fine for a driver Jim, what some of the guys are afte here is accurate restoration work, that's the only reason we blow so much wind around on the subject.

Teckle, the thermostat housing would have been installed when the engine was shipped
into the assembly plant so yes, it would be the same color as the engine.

Gene, much of this, such as all the tin work was painted back in 2005 or 12,000 miles
ago. Filling Station gray rattle cans, lasted pretty good so far don't cha' think?
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136174303/large

DG

Denny:

How many rattle cans did it take to paint that engine (my guess is two)? Also, why no boots on the plug wires?

They didn't have boots on spark plug ends from the factory.

DavidF -

Not to butt in front of Denny's answer to your question -- I feel that it takes more than two rattle cans to paint an engine.

I bought three rattle cans and one pint of engine paint from The Filling Station. I used almost all of it - and my paint is on pretty thin. I sprayed extra coats on the valve cover and push rod cover. The third can would be used up painting touch up spots and small parts - screws and bolts. So, I'm shooting the screws and bolts with an airbrush and paint from the pint.

I'm painting the engine while it is in the truck. Don't know if that makes any difference on the amount of paint used.

Rubber spark plug boots were used in '54 - don't know what year they started using them.

Considering the paint in the rattle cans you buy is thinned so you are actually paying a lot more for the paint when you buy rattle cans, and considering the fact that most if not all paint jobbers can take your paint, thin it and it and put it into rattle cans for you, why not buy the un-thinned paint in the quart can, put it rattle cans if you don't have a paint gun and save all of the extra for later touch ups????

Up above David, it took me one plus some to do the whole engine.
Obvously different people have differnt results.
Nope, no boots on the 216 plugs.

DG

Thanks Denny. I see now that you did say a "couple" in your previous posts. Yes, rattle cans are not the most efficient way to paint, but sometimes it is the easiest considering mixing and clean-up time when using the spray gun...especially on small parts.

Like I have said before, I use Rustoleaum satin black in both rattle cans and through my HLVP gun. The gun is only used when I have a large part to paint (i.e. fender liners, radiator support, etc.). Otherwise, I just use rattle cans. Also, I find it easier to get into nooks and crannies (an engine has a lot of them) with a rattle can.