The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop several general questions

Hi Folks!
Spring is just around the corner here in central Germany and I took my 55 series 2 long wheel base out for a shakedown cruise.
I've got several thoughts that I'd like to discuss with other bolters. There doesn't seem to be anybody here with enough stovebolt experience to help. Here goes:
1. When I start my Stovebolt,I very briefly hear lots of bearing noise (knocks). When it gets warm,there is no knocking at idle. Depending on how long it has been shut off, it may also knock very briefly(shorter than on cold start)when warm and I start it.Oil pressure is always very good and I am running 15W-40 oil. Friends say this is probably normal. It doesn't smoke or use lots of gas. It has 76,000 miles on the motor. Is this normal?
2. When warmed up and I drive it a little faster I hear lots of engine/tranny noise above 40-45mph. Doesn't sound like bearings.It's more like a rattling noise.Could this be the rocker arms. How can I check this? Compression check shows all 6 cylinders equal. Idle and general performance are very good. It also starts right up every time without any problems.Tranny is rebuilt, clutch and throwout bearing are new.
3. Last year I had a severe chassis vibration above 45mph. Discovered that my driveshaft u-joints were not installed correctly.They weren't in the same plane. I corrected this and reduced the vibration substantially.HOWEVER there is still a bit and I am wondering what could cause this.The universal joints seem to be OK as does the support bearing.Could they have been damaged last year when the driveshaft was out of phase?Is there something I am overlooking? Could the motor mounts be bad or maybe the harmonic balancer? How can I find out what causes the vibrations? Tires are new and balanced.
Many Thanks!!

This may be a good chance to have everyone take a look at this tech tip (Wake up, it's spring!) and see if we need to enhance it any.

Glad to hear from you. I'm sure the others will be in soon with real help.

Peg

Well, before installing that battery, check the electrolyte level and add distilled water if necessary.

This is a tough one. Which engine is in it?

Welcome sepp. Glad to have you here. How about downloading some pictures of your 55.2 on one of the photo hosting websites and posting a link here. We love old truck pictures.

As others have mentioned we need some more info in order to help diagnose your troubles.
It's a 6-cylinder so probably a 235. Unless the engine has been swapped sometime in the past - and a lot can/does happen in 50+ years. Be sure some of those pics show the motor. Do you have an oil pressure gauge that works? If so what does it read at speed and at idle?
What trans.? 3- or 4-speed?
Is this a 1/2-ton or 3/4-ton?
Is the body solid or does it have considerable rust? Rusted/loose body/cab mounts can add lots of noise.
What kind of tires? Highway tread or mud/snow tread? You said they are balanced? Any shimmy or shake in the steering?
I'm just brain-storming. Maybe none of this helps.
Good luck!

I just remembered Keith Hardy's website full of Chevy manuals and other information. Explore this
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955truck2/index.htm
And the rest of the site.

Thanks All!
I knew I could rely on getting help from the Stovebolt Forum.

Frank 50 here are the answers to your ???'s.
The body is perfect and the truck is all original with 76,000 miles. No rust, 4 speed, long wheelbase - 1/2 ton. New Coker wide whitewalls - highway tread (6.70-15 w/ 25psi Ft & Rr.) There is no shimmy or front end play. Alignment is spot on.
Frame of resto 3 years ago. Cabin and bed mounts OK. Oil pressure gauge works fine and pressure is stable at idle. Gauge has no psi values but at idle-warm-it stays at approx 1/4 mark. On the road it stays at approx 2/3 scale.
Would post some pictures if I knew how....

OOOPS!
Forgot to mention that the motor is the original 235ci inline six.