The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve Spring Removal, What's the Trick

I want to replace the valve seals on a 216 motor. I have a valve spring tool and it compresses the springs but the keeper at the top won't come out. I've tried this on several springs and none of them will come out. What am I missing or doing wrong? Also, what's the consensus on the type of seals to use, umbrella or O ring? I'm not doing a rebuild at this time, just replacing some leaking seals and gaskets.

Squirt a little penetrating oil on the retainer/keeper assembly and give the retainer a medium-firm tap with a ballpeen hammer before compressing the spring. Is the head on or off the engine? If you're doing the seal change with the head on, be sure the piston is at TDC or close to it to avoid dropping the valve into the cylinder. Once the retainer is compressed, use an awl or an ice pick to pry the keepers out of the groove. Sometimes they stick pretty tight.

If there's any noticeable wobble of the valve in the guide from wear, an umbrella seal will get you a few more miles before it's time to replace the guides. If the guide is snug, use the original O ring seal. Too much sealing will cause guide wear due to lack of lubrication.
Jerry

Jim,

It sounds like the tool isn't compressing the spring adequately. Isn't the compressor adjustable. If it isn't, can't you put a thin wood shim between the valve and the compressor finger, on the combustion chamber side to take up some room and allow for full compression of the spring.

Weren't the little stem seals the factory item? I remember putting umbrella seals on for added measure, but the stock stem seals worked fine if the guides weren't totally worn out.

If your spring compressor is adjustable, as it should be, you should be able to compress the valve spring until it is bound.

Stuart

The head is still on the engine. I know all about valves dropping inside the cylinder if not at TDC. I did it only once. The tool is adjustable and will completely compress the spring. I've used this tool before to replace seals on a small block chevy. I'm sure the valve guides are worn.

Once the spring is compressed, tap the retainer with a small hammer. Years of pounding get the parts stuck together pretty firmly. Just don't bend the valve in the process.
Jerry

The spring compressor I'm using looks like a small gear puller. There is no room to tap the retainer with even the smallest hammer. The clips are so tight that the spings pull up from the bottom instead of being pushed down from the top.

Jim,

I have used a hammer and deep socket that fits onto the retainer to break the hold between keepers and retainer.

If you give the socket a good smack while holding it at a very slight angle, the retainer will tip and release its bond with the keepers. You might have to do this a few times, then try your spring compressor.

All this monkey motion is done with the rocker assembly removed.

Stuart

Stuart is right about the way to loosen them. On an engine where the valve can hit the piston when wacked it is better to use the air fitting in the spark plug hole to keep the valve closed. with the rockers off the air pressure will push the piston to the bottom and out of harms way. In the 60's we did all the warranty work for Olds and Ford in the Dallas-Ft Worth region which amounted to around 105 SETS of heads a day. 90% of the retainers and keepers were removed by the big brass hammer and deep socket method; didn't have time to use even our air powered spring compressors. You cannot do this with the block surface of the head on the bench or it will bend valves when they strike the bench. Same with a piston on TDC on some engines.

Evan and Stuart,

I have the compressor and fittings to do this. Do you think I should also get a new set of keepers?

Jim,

Although the fit between keepers and retainer isn't a moving fit, my feeling would be keep the old with the old...if you replace the keepers, replace the retainers.

I personally would stick the old stuff back on, it pretty bullet proof.

Stuart

I used a spring compressor loaned me by autozone. It worked well except the narrow bottom spacing of the variable rate springs caused a bit or a problem. This compressor pressed down on the valve retainer and loosened the keepers. I happened to have a small rod mounted magnet made to fish dropped nuts out of inaccessible places. It worked wonderfully for fishing the keepers out of the retainer. Also worked well for dropping them back in place after installing the umbrell seals.
The compressor I used would not allow me to do the back (exhaust ) valve which is somewhat recessed under the firewall. There is an argument made for not even installing umbrella seals on the exhaust valves.
I'm told that the original factory valve seals (the o rings) only serve to prevent drain down of oil collected in the retainer cup when the engine is stopped. That collected oil would otherwise trickle down through the keepers and down the stems into the combustion area to produce smoke for a minute upon startup.
meansam