Been working on rebuilding a Trico with new parts, I came close to getting it all new but still have to work out making new seals. Luckily the original paddle seals in this one were only slightly worn and I was able to salvage them.
Seven years ago I disassembled my original motor, cleaned and wiped some white grease on the clean paddle and in the clean cylinder. Reassembled it using the old gaskets which were still intact and it ran fine for a couple of years. I haven’t used them in several years and when I went to try them last fall they would stick after one swipe and snap back when they’re turned off. So they worked good if you want to turn them on and off repeatedly. I haven’t taken it apart but I suspect that the white grease (Lithium) has dried out, it has a habbit of doing that after a few years. Also I’ll bet all the grease was wiped up into the corners and the seal is running dry now, that‘s what happened when there is no grease in reserve between the paddle.
So I’m bout ready to change out my original ‘50 wiper motor and see how a properly done rebuild operates compared to just cleaning and re-greasing the cylinder. The motor that I rebuilt in the photogs below is very strong and I’d have a hard time holding it back.
Great stuff. Did you think about mixing a little graphite into the grease as was mentioned in the patent?
What was the function of the disc you replaced on the piston? does this index with the hole on the cover and make it reverse?
Looks like a great job, and You have inspired me to try to do one also. I also like the tool you made for the little bolts. I take it you made this from a bolt on your lathe? I love the idea of drilling out the center and then flattening it out.
No graphite, the graphite mentioned in the patent was mixed with the nitrocellulose that the fabric was treated with back in the 30’s, not in the grease. The dried grease that was still in the piston and cylinder was just plane multipurpose grease. That is the exhaust disc, the reverse valve is on the side. Yep, beats the heck out of scaring up the screw heads with a pair of pliers.
Didn't measure it but it's probably drawing around 25in.hg. Sure pulls strong, wants to pull it right out of my hand. Installed it this morning and I'll give it a try on the dry windshield after my noon nap. DG
As soon as you can find Mr. Ficken's address, he earns every penny of it!
I made a test run with dry windows this weekend and yep the wiper motor works good and pulls strong, as long as you keep your foot out of the throttle. The dual fuel/vacuum pump is a big disappointment, it isn’t much better than it was with out it. Still goes dead when you open up the throttle. Next step is to get a vacuum gauge in side the truck so I can see what I’m pulling. With it hooked up under the hood last fall I thought it was pulling a steady 20in.hg. All of this is on the back burner for a while because we’re trying to relocate, if it happens then it may be a year or more before I can get back to working on the trucks or doing any experimenting. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
I know it. I had him do the motor on my last truck, and it was simply wonderful. When I have the mon-ay, the panel truck motor will head through the mail too.
No thanks spud, ya couldn't pay me enough to rebuild these for other people, I do enjoy the challenge of figuring out how they could be rebuilt at home. But...if your time is worth anything to you then you'er better off working a few hours overtime and sending it off to Bob. Besides, I've been working on this project for a good while and still haven't found a solution for a worn out paddle seal.
