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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 | Did some searching and reading and I think I may have main bearing issues, but I wanted to run it by you guys first and see if anyone had any additional insight.
Just recently, our full-pressue 235 (from a '55 car, in a '54 3600) developed a low-pitched "clunk" in the lower end. I used the old stethoscope/rubber hose trick and determined it was coming from behind the oil pan or the lower end of the block. It's a really subtle clunk or tumbling sound. It only does it at low idle. Giving it any throttle makes it disappear. It doesn't have any discernible pattern and isn't consistent like a rod slap or other knocks.
So, main bearings? If so, what sort of R&R can be done with the engine in the truck? Can I pull the oil pan and do an inspection on the bearings?
I know the right answer is to pull and rebuild the motor, but I'm not wanting to drop $2500 on it right now. We don't drive it a whole lot, so if there is anything we can do to patch it together for another couple of years or until I can find another 235, that would be helpful. Thanks!
Last edited by chicklin; 03/03/2012 12:05 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy chicklin, any idea what the oil pressure is when the engine is making this noise? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 255 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 255 | You can pull the pan and inspect the bearings without removing the engine. I would suggest you get a service manual for your engine, and do some reading. That should describe what you are looking for - along with the necessary specifications. Good luck with your project !! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 | Steady at 30 PSI, hot idle. Compression is about 130 psi across the board, vacuum gauge is steady at 19 lbs. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 | You can pull the pan and inspect the bearings without removing the engine. I would suggest you get a service manual for your engine, and do some reading. That should describe what you are looking for - along with the necessary specifications. Good luck with your project !! I've got the factory service manual, so I'll take a look. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 | If you can make the noise go away or change note noticeably by disconnecting spark plug wires one at a time, you've probably got piston slap, not a bearing problem. One or more pistons might have excessive skirt clearance, and is rocking in the bore as the spark plug fires. If that's what's happening, it's mostly just annoying, not an impending disaster. Jerry
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| | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 | I experienced the same sound out of my 216 a coupla years ago. Clunk sound at the lower part of engine at idle and disappear when the engine revved up. It was a bad harmonic balancer. Any rod or main bearing noise, and piston slap I experienced with other engines always got louder when revved up.
1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 | I experienced the same sound out of my 216 a coupla years ago. Clunk sound at the lower part of engine at idle and disappear when the engine revved up. It was a bad harmonic balancer. Any rod or main bearing noise, and piston slap I experienced with other engines always got louder when revved up. Good idea....how were you able to diagnose it? Will it have some play if I grab it and wiggle it with the engine stopped? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 | I found it by accident. I took the fan belt off. Started the engine and the noise was still there. So, it wasn't the generator or the water pump. Shut the engine off and grabbed the harmonic balancer, it moved and made the clunk sound I had been hearing. Without removing the radiator I was able to get the harmonic off with a harmonic puller. Pushed the new one on by using a very long 1/2" extension through the grill crankhole, and a large socket against the harmonic balancer. I had lucked out and the front end of the crankshaft was not damaged.
1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | You might check the clutch/throwout bearing, also.
cm If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 137 | Noise does not seem to change whether the clutch is in or out, so I'm leaning away from throwout bearing issues. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 283 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 283 | Do not disregard the possibility of loose flywheel bolts (slightly,not very).This happens often when someone has left out the dowel when reinstalling the flywheel and crank grinders love to lose the dowel so it is forgotten on reassembly. Get a bar on the flywheel rim and test for slack in the FW/crank/balancer assembly. Or just wait---like pregnancy it will show itself clearly in time.
Last edited by enginenut; 05/06/2012 8:58 PM.
Bob Taylor
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 | I second looking at fly wheel bolts. I had the bolts loosen one time on my truck. Clunked at idle, but would clear up at idle. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I believe with a main bearing knock, it will get louder as you load it up with the clutch. You could do this with the parking brake on using a low RPM. | | |
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