The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 Engine Rebuild....

Cool! Should be a fun day! c u @ 3

Engine arrived in great shape. (Thank you Daniel...) So, now here's my plan. Since the engine was recently rebuilt, turns over freely, etc.. I will be cleaning and painting.. not sure of the color yet.. suggestions welcome.

I think I'm going to keep the stock manifolds. I will take them off the head and replace the manifold gasket.

I'll use the Rochester carb (think it's a B) just cleaning it up and making sure all parts are clean and free. If it needs rebuilding, I can do that after the engine is in.

I'll get a new water pump (Can I just use a pump for a 216? Or do I need a 235 pump with a modified shaft?

I'll use my flywheel, bell housing, starter, generator and generator bracket.

It's looks like this engine has the right bracket for the front engine mount on it already.

I should get a new fuel pump, cap, rotor, points, condenser, wires, plugs, etc...

I think that should do it? Or am I forgetting anything?

Thanks folks.

I had the engine pulled and reinstalled by a different mechanic; not included in the $3,500. Bob

2-13 updated..

Cleaned the engine up, degreaser, pressure washer and some brush action. So far, so good. Confirmed it was rebuilt about 4000 miles ago. 30 over and not sure what else. I believe it has solid lifters, but not sure.. yet... So far, so good. Will spray with engine primer then 2-3 coats of engine paint. I'm using gray which I think is period close. It's not 'blue/gray' but...

My plan is to get the engine painted, clean upand paint (I purchased some header paint good to 1200 degrees) the manifolds, new gaskets on the thermostat housing, fuel pump, etc...

I'll get a new Patricks short conversion waterpump. Not sure if I want to do the 12 V conversion at this time or not. Patricks has a kit that they said would work fine.

I'll also use my flywheel and bell housing...

I'm hoping I feel a little difference between the 216 and this 235 (92 vs 145??HP)

Comments?

New 235 cleaned and ready for paint

Other side

Cylinder head number. Hope it's a good one..

Here's a few updated pics after paint. My plan is to use header paint on the exhaust manifold.\

Not sure what colors to use on the filter canister or horn or down tube. I'm thinking black, maybe red for the horn??


side view

Other sdie

Another side

So far, I am pleased.

Here's a few more parts that are cleaned and painted. I know most folks like pics.. At least I do... I clean the pieces with degrease, then scotch bright, then rub with alcohol then 2 light coats of VHT primer, then 2-3 coats of VHT engine paint. Keep in mind, you have to re-coat within 1 hour or wait 7 days. I re-coat when barely tacky. I'm not a painting expert, but they don't look bad...

Progress screeches on...

Not sure of the element number.. Anyone know??

AC filter ...

Dizzy...

down tube...

I was going to have someone swap engines, but I'm thinking of doing it myself.. I don't have much room inside is the only problem. If I did, I would remove the front section, the engine and that would be an excellent opportunity to clean and paint the front frame and inside fenders, etc...

Comments welcome

Looks good

If you post the diameter of the cannister someone might be able to tell you a filter part number or just take it to napa to match up.

Most distributors I've seen are black

Very nice results on your paint job

looks like about 4.5 inches diameter and about 5 inches deep. I have the old filter at work so I'll look for some numbers on it too.

Here's the 'black' dizzy.. black dizzy..

as far as exhaust goes, Eastwood has a do it yourself ceramic coating that seems to work pretty well, and isn't horribly expensive. I did my fentons with it about a year ago and there is no noticable impending doom yet. (they are still shiny)

Thanks .. (Atom?) Do you have a pic of your set up? That would be great.

By the way, my oil filter takes a NAPA 1100 or WIX 51100 element.. (about $7.50)

Progress screeches on.

I've yet to decide weather to replace the motor myself or have someone do it. If I did it myself, I would remove front clip so I can clean and even paint the frame and inside fender wells. I don't really have any room to work in either. argh.

LOOKING GOOD! I AM ALSO AT ABOUT THE SAME POINT AS YOU ARE WITH YOUR REBUILD. I HAD READ SOMEWHERE THAT THE EXAUST MANIFOLD WAS PAINTED THE SAME GREY AS THE ENGINE,ANYONE KNOW FOR SHUR IF THAT IS CORRECT? BABE

Yes, that was correct, however, often by the time the engine was
delivered to the customer the paint had already been burnt off.
The dark gray paint that the engines were painted with was not
a high temperature paint.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

THANKS DENNY,I AM GOING TO ASSUME THAT YOU WOULD TELL ME TO PAINT THE EXAUST MANIFOLD WITH HIGH TEMP CAST IRON ENGINE PAINT?JUST PICKED UP MY ENGINE FROM THE REBUILDER TODAY.BLIZZARD YESTARDAY,19 INCHES,COUNTY WAS SHUT DOWN.WAS SO WONDERFUL TO WORK ON OL BLU ALL DAY LONG.THANKS AGAIN,ANY SUGGESTIONSWILL MOST DEFFINATLY BE APPRECIATED. BABE

Lots of ways you can go. If you're looking for originality, then let the paint burn off and
leave it bare and let it rust up, that's what it would have looked like in your garage a few
weeks after you bought the truck new.
If you don't want that look then you can treat it with Calyx exhaust manifold dressing, rub it on and
touch it up every couple of months, looks like cast iron:
http://www.eastwood.com/calyx-manifold-coating.html
If you don't really care but simply don't like the look of a rusty exhaust manifold then there are dozens
of hi-temp paints that all the automotive suppliers sell in red, black blue and gray.
So you see, you have to make up your mind as to what your end goal is and what you‘ll be happy with
when you open the hood.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Made some progress today with painting and assembly.

235 to replace 216 cleanup, paint and install

Dmgfifty, not to be a painter it looks like you've done a great job. I'm fixing to replace my 1956 Hdy. lifter engine with a 1955 solid lifter engine. I'm in the same position as you. Do I just pull the engine or remove the front cap. I'm thinking remove the front cap. Just thought I'd tell you. You are doing a good job on the painting.

Thank you for the support. It's coming out better then I expected.

I would remove the front cap. Just makes things a bit easier and you can clean and paint some areas you would not have easy access to if you did not have it off.

Make sure you post some pics along your way.

Enjoy!

DMG,
Looking really nice. Good job.

Here's an update of progress made. Dizzy is in and timed, fuel pump installed, throttle linkage stud moved to it's needed location (thanks to pre'68Dave) and exhaust/intake manifolds installed. Still working on water pump (using adapter plate) and will have to change to my balancer....)

Progress screeches on....

intake/exhaust


other side

Two things I see.
First, do not use a solid oil filler cap with the valve cover you have. It should have a vented cap.
Second, if you plan on using the fuel pump shown, make sure you put a fuel filter before it. The original glass bowl pump had a filter screen in it to protect the check valves. The pump shown will have no protection.

Thanks Dave. Vented cap it is and will put an inline filter before pump. On my 216 I have the same setup, however the inline filter is after the pump.

There is nothing wrong with a filter between the pump and carb. It just does not protect the pump.

Can a running 1952 216 be upgraded to a full pressurized oiling system? Or am I looking at a full rebuild? Hate to do that since PO owner had the thing rebuilt. Or can I just pull all the speed equipment off of it and go find a 235?

That's what I'd do. If you really want to go all-out, hunt down a 261.