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#830377 02/27/2012 11:22 PM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 320
T
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
T Offline
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Following is a tech tip recently submitted. I have edited it a bit and would like some reviews before final posting.

Thanks,

Ned
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Insalling a T5 transmission and keeping your foot pedal starter!

This tip details how to install a T5 transmission while retaining original flywheel, clutch assy. and starter.

I recently obtained a T5 (transmission number 1352-145) with a 14 spline input shaft. The 1352-145 T5 gear ratios are 1st 3.76 2nd 2.18 3rd 1.42 4th 1.00 5th .072. They are out of an 85/86 S10 L4 or V6.

Don’t get confused on the transmissions I.D.. There are numbers all over the casings that are just part numbers. Look for the white and green sticker on the main case or the metal I.D. tag bolted to the tail shaft housing. The metal tag is about three inches long and about a half inch wide. The identification tag is a White & Green sticker with numbers on top of the main case.

I found that the easiest way to solve the problem is change the input shaft. (14 spline to a 10 spline)

Obtain a 10 spline input shaft (I used a Jeep input shaft factory part No.1351085008) it has a 21 tooth gear and the spline is one inch in diameter just like the early originals. I had a machinist mill off a ½ inch of the pilot shaft and then put a slight chamfer on the edge to aid the insertion to the pilot bearing like the original.

You have to remove the old 14 spline input shaft to make sure you get the right 10 spline replacement shaft (the gear ratio on the inside will differ). You will have to press on a new bearing (part number K-5) if you purchase a new one. I recommend a new one it saves a ton of time. The housing seal part number is 100254.

Drill out the metric transmission mounting holes to fit the 1/2 standard ones on the bell housing.

Now you can use the original clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate, starter and flywheel.
The key is to use a SM420 bell housing ( from a truck with the foot pedal starter if so equipped).

I did this on my 51 Chevrolet coupe it works awesome. I was lucky that my brother had purchased a 55 Chevrolet first series ½ ton truck. He pulled the six out and installed a V8 I had sense enough to keep all the parts except the foot pedal. I used everything and installed it on my 1955 261 engine that was pulled out of a school bus.

The coupe turns 2000 rpm's at 66 mph with a 3:42 rear end and a 0.72 OD fifth gear.

This method will let you use the original flywheel, and clutch setup on most any early year truck or car it takes the guess work out of it. Of course your driveshaft and crossmember will also need to be modified depending on your year and model.

My friend owns a transmission shop and he was amazed how everything turned out. He charged me 75.00 for the input shaft and another friend used a ceramic cutter to mill off the end (the shafts are hardened). I owe my machinist buddy a beer now it pays to net work and make friends something tells me though it might be a rough night in the garage.

My friends at Moline Transmission performed the rebuild and obtained my parts ask for Tony if you have any questions on the subject he is a wealth of knowledge and very willing to help.
Moline Transmission 309-762-0221
Moline, IL.61265

I recommend you have a local machine shop to mill off the input shaft with a ceramic cutter.
Steve LeMaster

Last edited by The Ned; 03/04/2012 4:14 AM.

1951 Chevy 1-Ton Panel
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That is great info. Getting the 14 spline clutch disc is always the big problem. Did you have to cut the front brg. retainer coller back also? I have cut several of the shafts back with an air die grinder & a cuttoff wheel.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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With the 10 spline input shaft,did you have to extend the splines ?I have done two of them and cut the splines"extend" so the clutch disc will travel further.Just curious about the spline length of the jeep input shaft.



Thanks,Tim


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
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According to Steve, no other modification was required. He say's it works like a dream.

Hopefully he'll take a look at this and respond.


1951 Chevy 1-Ton Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Pictures of the restoration on Photobucket
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
RIP good friend.
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 320
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bmp


1951 Chevy 1-Ton Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Pictures of the restoration on Photobucket
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
RIP good friend.
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,072
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Okay, this Tech Tip is in it's final form. If you have any comments, suggestions (or a picture that would go with it thumbs_up), let us know. It will stay permanently linked to the thread in the Driveline section for any future discussion.

Steve and The Ned did a great job with this. Thank you thank you.

Peg


~ Peggy M
1949 Chevrolet 3804
"Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship
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"We make a living by what we get; we make a life by what we give." -- Winston Churchill
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I spoke with Steve regarding the questions asked.

1. Wrench Bender, No mods were required to the retainer.
2. Bowtietim, No the only mod to the shaft was trimming off the end of the pilot shaft.
3. Joker, on the model trasmission used the speedo was mechanical. Later years used an electronic sensor, but not sure when that came to be.

thanks for the feedback folks.

Ned


1951 Chevy 1-Ton Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Pictures of the restoration on Photobucket
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
RIP good friend.

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