The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop new rebuild, timing?

Howdy folks,
Been doing some searching and finding and head scratching and still haveing some problems with a buddy's '70 350 that has just been rebuilt.
He just had it rebuilt professionally,
changed to HEI, Q-Jet, (all new parts) etc.
we put everything back into the car and we can't get it to run right to save our lives. We have set and reset TDC #1, checked wires, and done everything that we can think of and if it does start to run, it runs poorly - like the timing is a tooth off or something.

So, since we have spent the better part of the last 2 weekends being frusterated, can the wise sages start putting out some suggestions for the obvious things that we are probably missing?
you know, the "can't see the forrest through the trees" idea.
I am hoping that it is something stupid and easy that we are just overlooking.
thanks. I am going to beat my head against the wall some more.

Bishop,

Although I'm not a SB genius, some things come to mind;

Make sure no ballast resistor ahead of HEI.

Verify firing order..#1 drivers side front, and CW rotation of distributor.

Lifters (hydraulic) were pre-filled and roughly set before running engine.

Carburetor is getting proper fuel and has approximate initial idle settings.

If the engine will start at all, manually adjusting the loose distributor one way or the other should make a difference in the way it runs. Are all your vacuum ports either capped or have hoses attached. Good luck.

Stuart

Did that to myself omce,couldn't get to run right.rechecked plug wires twice, still not running right.My non mechaniccly inclined brother stops by and checks the plug wires.I had 2 switched.talk about feeling stupid......oh well.I guess don't overanalize thing's and step back,take a deepbreath,and slow down...lol

As Automarc says "no ballast resistor"(wire) to the HEI. You should have 10 awg from ignition switch to the HEI. I just smoked a wire harness because I didn't run 10 awg all the way. The HEI wants to see a full 12 volts.

Larry

Bishop,

A quick thought! Is your friend up to speed on the cam break-in procedures with today's oil formulations. Most folks recommend a GM oil additive AND a motor oil with increased levels of zinc. Do a search in the engine section, or check with the cam manufacturer...it can make a difference.

Stuart

Check the camshaft timing. No, it's not necessary to pull the timing cover to do it- - - -you can watch the valve action and the timing marks on the front of the engine and get a very close estimate of whether you're a tooth off.

Remove the passenger's side valve cover, and watch the third pair of valves from the front (#6 cylinder). Turn the crankshaft slowly past TDC, and watch the valves. The exhaust valve should be in the process of closing, and the intake should be opening just as the timing mark passes TDC. At the same time, the distributor should be in the firing position for the #1 cylinder.

It's also possible you've got a mismatch between the timing cover timing pointer, and the mark on the vibration damper. Early model dampers and timing covers had the TDC mark at about the 2:00 position, while later ones would align with TDC at the 12:00 position, right behind the water pump. If you've got an early timing cover and a late damper, you're setting the ignition timing about 30 degrees late.
Jerry

Thanks for the suggestions guys...
We've verified 12V at the HEI and all the plug wires... Time to watch the valves it sounds like.

Are we sure that the timing marks on the cam and crank are properly aligned ? I would not drive around in a car timed by ear but in this case i might try getting it started and then twisting the dist until is sounds better and then see were i am at .

About the HEI which you said was new. I replaced my unit with an aftermarket HEI from Mallory. The instructions say to install a ballast resistor if you don't have a resistor built into the wiring harness. My old stock HEI did not as Atomarc and others have said. If the carb is new you need a 0-30" Hg. vacuum gauge to get the adjustments right.