| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (Phak1, moparguy, Chooglin, 54farmtruck, 2-Ton, GMCJammer51, WICruiser),
47
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,151 Posts1,057,004 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 10 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 10 | I'm trying to track down a bad oil leak in my 292 powered, '68 C10. Evidence of leak is on passenger's side of motor, but it's bad enough that oil is on the underside, etc.
Nothing obvious while running, but oil pools at the front of the main cross-member. It doesn't seem to be leaking from the valve cover, fuel pump, distributor, front main seal, or rear main seal (not 100% about rear main). I suspect the oil pan itself has a rupture, but I can't see above the cross-member to inspect the bottom of the pan.
Sound like a pan leak? Can I remove the pan with the motor in place? Not much clearance between it and the cross-member?
thx, Eric | | | | | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | To drop the pan you have to disconnect the engine mounts and jack the engine. However, first I would thouroughly clean the engine, it will make finding the leak easier.
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
| | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 | Concur. Clean first. I just did this to my 250 about 2 months back. I recomend using a shop crane to raise the engine. The book says to remove motor mount pass though bolts, loosen (not remove) the tranny crossmember bolts, then raise the engine. Now reinstall the pass thru bolts above the frame portion of the motor mount and set the engine down on it. It's still a tight squeeze, but doable.
BTW, I did it using a floor jack. Din't forget to put a block of wood under the oil pan if you use a floor jack. And it's a good time to paint that nasty ol' pan too......
35 + years of rollin' steel!
| | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 10 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 10 | Thanks for the replies. I've got an engine hoist and floor jack I can use. I think the hoist would be a better move as the pan seems pretty thin. Where's a good place to hook the hoist up to the motor?
BTW, if the rear main is the culprit, would you advise pulling the tranny or motor? I've got a Powerglide. | | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 111 | As far as rear main goes, I'd attack from the engine side. Places to jack from: My 250 has 2 bolts on the head (passenger side) where the battery ground attaches. Thats my front jack point, my rear is a bolt hole at the very back of the engine (rear center head). I have brackets for these two spots. It balances the engine nicely.
35 + years of rollin' steel!
| | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 10 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 10 | Just what I was looking for, Pal. I'll hook the chains up to the those bolts. thx | | |
|
|
| |
