The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 oil filter (can i use this?)

i have a 54 235 and was wondering if this spin on filter kit would work well with my motor.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG4985&N=700+115&autoview=sku

if not can you direct me to one that would?

another question i have is- is there some type of pressure regulator for these bypass filters that would cut flow to the filter if oil pressure drops below a certain point or is there no such thing.


thanks in advance!

and of coarse i wouldn't use the relocation adapter, just the filter mount and hose and such.

No. That,s a relocation kit for full flow filters. You will need to get a used bypass filter & get a hose & fitting kit from one of the specialty suppliers. There is no pressure regulator but you can put a restrictor in the fitting comeing out of the oil gallery.

ok thanks,

i seen on some peoples trucks on here that they had a kit that was make for the bypass system and they said mentioned they got it from napa. anyone know if napa still sells it, or any other retailer.

and why wouldn't that work exactly?

[img]http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/marcelo54/Im001313.jpg[/img]

thats exactly what i was talking about, i seen that in another post when i searched this topic


what size fittings did you use and whats your oil pressure look like.

The illustration above is showing a full-flow filter relocation setup. Either on a modified 235 or 261. The 1/2" lines give it away. The bypass filter uses an 1/8 or 3/16" ID rubber line.

Unless you've had your engine modified during the rebuild process, you're pretty much restricted to using the stock GM cartridge filter with the small rubber lines. The stock bypass filtering system bleeds off a small percentage of oil from the gallery and after running it through the filter, dumps it back into the pan. The modified engine full-flow system, with 1/2" ID lines and a spin-on filter, pumps all of the oil directly to the filter and then back to the bearings. In a modified 235 the idle pressure stays up around 25 psi and 45 at speed. I discovered that by plugging the bypass filter holes on a non-modified 235, that I picked up 5-7 psi at idle. This causes me to question the value of running a bypass filter. Do a search as there is a wealth of good info on the oiling system. Hope this helps.

Dave

well ive been thinking about not even running a filter. my truck is going to be a cruiser and used at the most once a week. then ill just change the engine oil every 2k miles or so.


thanks for clearing things up.

I just bought one of those adapters for my 54 from oriellys and i have asked if there would be any problem using it and the answer was no. but i am still worried because of some comments made before and in this post. ron HELP btw i hope flachevy3100 doesn't mind but these pictures are on his webshots. http://rides.webshots.com/album/557190450brdpqh?start=48

Hi Ron and Chris,

You've got to remember that my engine block has been drilled and plugged to convert it to the full-flow filteration system which uses the 1/2" oil hose. The bypass system found in a non-drilled engine, uses a 1/8" ID line that is available from most of the online suppliers specifically for bypass filter setups. Your stock block is threaded for 1/8"NPT fittings. The relocation spin-on filter mounts are all threaded for 1/2NPT fittings....you'd have to reduce down to 1/8NPT at the filter and fabricate your own hoses. This is doeable but I question the need for adding a spin-on filter with plumbing that is going to have to worm around your exhaust system. Remember, the bypass system filter only 10% of the oil flow at one time. My concern is the pressure loss to the bearings while you're running a bunch of plumbing to a filter that isn't even going to be optimized between oil changes.

I've proved that plugging the existing filter holes will improve your oil pressure by 5-7 pounds and find that I'd rather have good oil pressure to the engine bearings as opposed to having a filter than only marginally filters the oil. Changing the new modern oils every 2-3K is cheaper then replacing a set of bearings and a cam.

As for the second part of your question there is not any way of regulating the pressure bleed-off from the relocated filter on a stock bypass filter system on the 235 engine unless you plug it. Using the 3/4 X16 threaded mount with a FoMoCo filter which has a built-in bypass, you can maintain oil pressure if the filter becomes clogged in a modified full-flow system.

If it were mine I'd plug it, smile when I saw the improvement in the oil pressure and just enjoy the drive.

Dave

What years did they go to the full flow system on the 235 and 261's?

Running a remote spin on setup as supplied by a FLAPS is indeed dangerous on a bypass type engine as the oil is directly diverted away from the bearings and returned to the pan. A remote spin on adapter that is designed for bypass use will have a plug right in the filter head with a small (1/32" in my case) hole to regulate flow and pressure. A spin on unit with a restrictor results in better pressure than the original bypass filter which has a "cost" of 5-7 p.s.i. as Dave points out.

Curt B.

235 never had full flow, 261 started in '59-'62.
I'm running a filter from a '60 261 (wish I'd got the engine, too, but it's long gone now). I've got it plumbed in with 1/4" steel brake line, bushed up to the 1/2"npt on the housing. Still set up as bypass. I carry around 35-40 psi at idle, up around 60 or so at cruising speeds. I'm also running a FilterMag on the housing, too.

If you had a restriction the same size as what the factory bypass filter had, why wouldn't it work to use the spin on filter? I could see a spin on filter being a lot easier to change and not nearly the mess.