The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs sliding windows

I suspect most burb owners have figured out that the qtr glasses should have the stainless bar on both pieces of glass. I assume over the years they either got pulled off, or fell off, got lost when the glass broke ect? Now that I have two burbs that need the qtr glasses/windows rebuilt, this topic has been very helpful, thanks.

Just to add to this, my 51 burb had only 4 bars and my 53 had 8 bars? So I'm cornfused.

That is not correct.

In some years (1954 Chevrolet Suburban, for one) there is no stainless bar on the sliding window. There is only a "push-pull" clip in the center vertical-edge of the sliding window. The stainless bar with whisker is on the stationary window in 1954 (and maybe also in other years).

Just out of curiosity how do those window's that only have the pull tabs lock shut????

I know on those with the full length stainless its the lower portion of the trim itself that locks them against the finger pull tabs

My stainless vertical trim piece that holds the cat whiskers slides with the window.There isn't two stainless trims per window,nor has there ever been on my suburban.My vertical trims lock the window in place with these window locks. window locks I would like to see pictures of what you are talking about.Can you post some pictures ?


Tim

my burb has the trim you wrote about that are full length and lock the window in place....
but if i read the previous post correctly burbs with the stainless trim that holds the whiskers on and mounts on the stationary windows(i once had a set of these and sold them) had only the push/pull tab that mounted in the center of the glass sliding window.
these are what my question is refering to,,,, how do these sliding windows lock shut if they only have a push/pull tab?

Elhippie64,I was replying to yakimabowtie,I would like to see what he is talking about.I looked at cletis's windows at the reunion,but I don't remember what they looked like.


Tim

Oh gotcha....... Sorry about that.

I would also like to see pics

Tim Lederman,does your small push pull handles lock against the stationary vertical trims ? Do your stationary windows have two stainless trims per window ? I'm trying to understand the differences.



Tim

These are quick-and-dirt photos - no editing or backdrop:

1954 Chevrolet Suburban rear sliding-window stops and stationary-glass vertical bar (and sliding-glass SS tab in middle of edge of sliding glass).

Ohhhh, so the glass itself catches on the window locks preventing it from pushing or pulling open.
I have a set of those style window locks and now know how the work.


Thank you for the pics

Tim,thanks for the pictures of your rear windows.Does the glass get any chipping where it meets the lock after time ? Did GM go to your style in 1954-1955.1 ?


Tim

Tim,

I do not know if Chevrolet (and/or GMC) went to my style in 1954.

No, the glass does not get chipped or broken due to the lock-clip.

Where the the glass gets chipped is where/when the sliding glass hits the window frame when someone pushes it open too fast/hard. I have completely solved this problem by placing a rubber hose in the sliding window's channel - to act as a stop.

Tim,thanks for the information.


Tim

pplumber,your link doesn't work for me.

I received my qtr glass rebuild kit for my 51 burb from Classic. Now does anyone have any tips on how to remove the old wisker strip/metal and insert the new strips? The old metal was rusted right into the channel. I read another post suggesting you have to spread the channel sides? Thanks.

If you're talking about whiskers that attach to the stainless pieces that attach to the glass, they are spot welded to the stainless channel itself.

This one http://1954advance-design.com/Web%2...op/stop-and-stationary-SS-vertical_1.jpg

Mine is a bit different from Tim's. My strip is attached to the glass that slides, not the stationary one, but this is the piece I am talking about.

I started down that path of cutting them out of the channel, but soon realized, that's now how you do it. I cut the whiskers down the center, scraped it out, found the spot welds, cut them off, and the whisker strip came off from the channel. Then, I glued the new strips directly to the channel. total time took me less than an hour once I realized that they were just spot welded on there.

FYI - My glass guy struggled with the channels from Classic for hours on one window. He said that the window channel was super cheap stuff and just wasn't that flexible. He gave up and we went to Steele Rubber (an hour away from him) and bought some more flexible stuff and put all four windows in the truck in less than half a day. Granted it was more expensive, but it was worth it.

pplummer's technique for removing the old whisker is excellent AND it is a "safe" way to do this. I cracked one stainless channel for one of my windows by trying to pry out the old whisker (luckily I had one spare). I did not recognize that those pieces were welded. As I think I posted above, I took about 4 hours per channel to slowly and carefully remove the old whiskers (patience and a Dremel tool helped a lot).

My whiskers are not riveted in place.The stainless steel channel that holds cat whisker is welded to the rest of the stainless steel vertical trim.The channel is pinched on each end and that's what holds my whisker in the the channel.

You can use a hacksaw blade and cut the whisker right down the middle,and they will come out easily.


Tim

Tim,

That is what I did on two of mine.

Just to beat this dog a little more, regarding replacing the wisker strip.

FYI - My glass guy struggled with the channels from Classic for hours on one window. He said that the window channel was super cheap stuff and just wasn't that flexible. He gave up and we went to Steele Rubber (an hour away from him) and bought some more flexible stuff and put all four windows in the truck in less than half a day. Granted it was more expensive, but it was worth it.

So is there a source for a wisker/felt strip that can slid into the old channel? I'm hesitant cutting off the old channel, what kind of adheisive are you using to glue them on? Thanks,Phil

Side Rear Window Seals and Channels
WI142 1947-55 Glass wedge rubbers, side rear windows, Suburban, set of 4 wedge rubbers that hold the sliding glass channel tight against the body, use with WI207 $48.00 Set Add to cart
WI207 1947-55 Window channel, side rear windows, Suburban, set of 4 pieces, enough for one truck, use with WI142 Discontinued
WI800 1947-55 Glass rubbers and window channels (WI207 and WI142), sliding side rear windows, Suburban, set of 8 pieces Discontinued



2/22/12
American Classic no longer carries the window rubbers necessary for the Suburban Quarter windows.

You can get everything from Jim Carter,except the rear glass.Quarter glass window rubber # WI487 .Those part numbers are Jim Carter numbers,classic uses them as well.
You can have a local glass shop cut your glass.

Classic Parts Of America sells the parts as well.


Tim

I'm loOking for the 1950 side glass slider stainless peaces know who repops them?

Welcome to Stovebolt.com

I have have never seen a reproduction. Place a Parts Wanted ad in the Swap Meet and regularly check the Parts For Sale ads in the Swap Meet. These Suburban parts come up every so often, but you have to be fast to respond.

What I do not like is that sellers are allowed to post a price and "OBO", meaning they wait to see who makes the best offer above the stated price. This makes the Swap Meet more like a silent auction - not my rules (I am just stating what I was told when I complained about it). And, in the end, it did not matter - I got burned by that seller, who sent the wrong parts and then disappeared. Let the Buyer Beware. If you buy from a person who has made a lot of recent posts, you will be safe. A regular poster/seller will most likely not burn you.

Thank you, will do appreciate the warning. :-)

All of this is great information. I have the glass cut (8) and I have the stops and channeling. I found these from a marine supplier I am guessing these would work for handles. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/perko--sliding-window-handle--205494?recordNum=127 What I do not have or understand is the rest of the hardware. does any one have suppliers for the rest of the hardware that I need to purchase?

Roadworthy, welcome to the Stovebolt. If you haven't already, feel free to go to the Welcome Forum and introduce yourself. Tell us a little about your project!

If you create a signature for your posts, you won't have repeat over and over what kind of vehicle you are working on. Just a suggestion.

At the top of this forum is a post with a link to more window glass trim. And, if you look through some of the Tech Tips, you'll find more information for what you are working on. I made one for the windows on my Burb, maybe it will help you a little. Suburban Side Window Install

Again, welcome to the Stovebolt!!

I have a 1951 Carryall. I have the channeling and seals. I have the cat whiskers. I have the rubber stops. I have a handle for the slider window and will fabricate a locking devise. I have the patterns to have the glass cut... what thickness of glass do I need to make all of this Work?

I believe the glass is 1/4" thick. Maybe someone else will chime in to confirm or correct that.

** I recently replaced all the glass in my 53 Suburban & retained all the orig. glass. The orig. sliding glass mics at exactly .250 {1/4 inch}

I measure the same 0.250 for the sliding glass.

(sorry to add this, but I am getting no response to my post : would 47-55 Suburban owners please measure and post the "rib-rib" distance in/on the Suburban rear linoleum floor cover/matt? Please PM me or post in that other thread).

I have a '51 carryall that didn't have side windows, so I started putting them in. BTW this discussion has helped me tremendously thanx for all the info and tips!!! Since I have started I feel I have made some progress. I have 1 Window in and working to get the second one in place. I bought the "stainless steel window lock springs from Jim Carter part#WI1486." I think I found out how these works, please jump in here because I am a newby, if I've got it wrong "Any" input would be welcomed to help me do it right.
Between the stationary and slider window, in the bottom of the window frame on the body edge, there is a slot. The slot corresponds to the width of the spring, below on the body there are 2 holes. These holes match the threaded holes in the spring. I am guessing the spring acts as a lock, sticking slightly inside the leading edge of the slider. This blocks the window from being opened from the outside. To open the window you pull the springs away to slide the window past it. This seemed to function, the only issue is... the spring rubs against the inside of the slider window & this will eventually scratch a line on the the bottom edge of the slider glass. Have I gotten this right? As I mentioned before.. this is all new to me, I could have imagined this would work and could be way off base. Any additional info would be warmly welcomed...Thanx in advance.