The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk heater blower

how do you remove the fan from the motor? tried everything i know, only got the shaft to move about 3/16 inch. used WD40 and soaked for 2 hr.

there is a set screw on the side. just took mine off today

unless yours was like mine where someone had drilled the hex part out of the set screw...

A heat gun and or 1500 watt hair dryer will help the WD.

I was replacing the motor to change voltage so I didn't care about the old motor. Found the same problem you did. I drilled/ground the heads off the bolts that hold the motor together on the exposed end of the motor. Took the motor apart and allowed me to support the back side of the fan on the outside. I was then able to tap the shaft through the fan and out. It worked for me...

Just curious, had you considered keeping the original heater motor and installing a voltage reducer for $10.50.

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=EL135&i=|voltage%20reducer||

Hi Super Shark, no I never considered it. The motor was no good and it was the wrong voltage so I just replaced it. But this brings a question to mind. Is there a current limit for a voltage reducer? I wonder if a dc motor exceeds the limit, if there is one. I used one for the gauges/gages and it did look robust. I wonder...

Here are the specs for the reducer and it says to use one for each accessory.


" This heavy duty reducer drops 12 volt to 6 volt. When you have converted to a 12 volt system and still use a 6 volt radio or original heater. Protects six volt accessories from higher 12 volt systems. Warning: use only one EL135 for each accessory!!! Each. 3.3 amp / 50 watts 1 ohm "

the fan has no set screw, tried heat still no luck. the blower did not work so maybe i will take it apart and support the under side and drive it out. thanks for all the help

root -

The squirrel cage on my '54 Fresh Air heater was held to the motor shaft with a push nut. After I pealed off the push nut, I held the squirrel cage with the motor dangling below and lightly tapped the hub with a hammer to break it free. The weight of the motor pulled the two apart.

I believe that the Recirculating heater may have a four blade fan instead of a squirrel cage. Don't know how that fan is attached to the motor shaft.

Voltage reducers require the amperage of the motor to be used to size the reducer, using ohm's law, or, just measure the reduced voltage at the motor w/ the motor on, if it isn't 6 V, then adj. the voltage reducer. This is for the wound resistor w/ a sliding pickup to adj. the proper voltage. A reading of 8V, probably won't hurt, since 6V wires are thicker than 12V wires.

Yes the recirculating heater motor has a 4 blade fan on it. There is a set screw on the side. That's the way mine is anyway-1952.

thanks for all the help, got tired messing around and sawed the shaft off supported the underside with a socket and still had to use a BFH and a punch, finally came out of the squirrel cage could not see what was holding it on. now i need to find a new 12v motor,any one using a motor out of different truck or car?

root -

I replaced my non-working 6v heater motor with a 12v heater motor from a 60 Impala. It's a little smaller diameter than the original 6v motor. (My truck has been converted to 12v)

Here is my 6v motor on left, 12v Impala motor before sandblasting and painting in middle, 12v FLAPs motor on right.
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Here is the recap of my heater rehab with 12v Impala motor.
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Here is how Deve put a 12v FLAPS motor inside his 6v motor case to preserve the correct look.
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Gus (DADS50) has also put a 12v motor inside his 6v case.

I notice again that hammertite paint is the choice of a lot of guys on the heater. I have my heater apart and inside, where I believe it to be original has absolutely no hammered texture to it. I think Harrison used more than one paint for sure. My paint looks to be a semi-gloss. It looks the same as the interior color that I found that I feel is also original under the press paper trim on the windshield support. It may be because my 2 ton was a fire truck and probably sold as a cab and chassis, I don't know, but for sure there is not textured paint anywhere on it.

Super55 -

Glad your heater still has its original paint.

I think most agree that original heaters had a smooth texture - not hills and valleys of hammertone type paint. However, my heater and others did have multicolors like hammertone paint. The Hammerite paint that I used on my heater is way too bumpy. Some have experimented with various spray techniques and with thinning the paint. Don't know the success rate.