The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Power steering Upgrade

I've done a quick search but nothing specif. really pops up.

Since I'm swaping cabs and cleaning up the front end over the winter I think it would be a perfect time to upgrade to PS. I'v got the link to Rez Eng. but they only have a home page nothing more (at least yet). I've read where folk have done this upgrade. Can someone give me some pointers?

I know I need a PS pump, hoses and some sort of braket kit to modify my manual box, but cutting the steering col. shaft scares the hell out of me. I used to have an article from (Hot rod mag.) explaining the swap out but I can't seem to find it.

Any of you done this yet?

Jake,
I recently did a PS conversion on a 65 C-20. It was a fairly straight forward conversion. I got the steering box, bracket, & hoses from ABS in Orange, CA. You can use a rag joint or borgeson joint, either way the existing column needs to be cut. The instructions say to cut the shaft about 6" above the joint. I used a rag joint with a sleeve welded between the upper shaft and the shortened lower section. You only have to cut about an inch out of the shaft. It is not necessary to remove the column or the center shaft for the conversion.
Fred

Power Steering Retrofit - Make Your Classic Truck More Driveable
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href="http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/60_66_chevy_gmc_power_steering_retrofit/index.html">steering</A>

IIRC, I read on another board the REZ kits was not too good a fit for 60-62, & that Classic Performance Products had one specifically for the 60-62 X-frame trucks.

Can I go to a junk yard and get a PS setup of another Chevy/GMC truck and what years would I ask for?

I thought I read somewhere a you could do that? Getting oldI guess. The parts that scares me is the cutting of the shaft, I'd need to find some one to weld it up.

Jake all the kits use a box from 68-87 C10, the kits merely adapt that box to your frame. Finding a pump & brackets for the V6 might be a challenge.

Oh I love this V-6, but darn sometimes I wonder!!!!

I forgot I bought a OEM pump setup from Ed Snyder about a year ago with the brakets,
(getting senile) I believe the brackets came with it. I may need to have the pump looked at but I think all it there. I'll try to go through the parts next week. Lay everything out and see what I have and what I may need.

Thanks
Jake

Jake,
Just some info about the steering boxes. There are a couple of them. The standard has about 4.2 turns and the quick ratio is about 3.6 turns. Both will work OK, I used the standard one and it worked great. As far as the shaft, I picked up a section of steel tubing 3/4" ID X 1" OD. I mocked everything up then removed the sleeve and drilled and threaded it to clamp each end of the shaft. Then reassembled with 1/4 24 bolts with lock nuts, when everything was determined to be straight and working I took it to a guy to weld it up.
Fred

I did mine another way-first I scribed a mark on the shaft & the flange, then I ground the swedge off holding the flange onto the shaft using a big az drill, then cut the shaft, ground the end slightly & re-attached the flange using a MIG weld. Both the shaft & flange look smell & taste like regular mild steel so I am not worried about welding & if you look under the dash of any late model car(esp import) there is welded steering knuckles. I used a Millermatic 220

Brian,

You WELDED on a steering component!!! may the fleas of 1000 camels infest your armpits!


Stuart

I knew somebody would flog me

Just about every steering modification that I have seen requires some kind of cutting and welding on the steering shaft. Many streetrods, cars & trucks are running around with welded shafts. If they are done correctly there should be no problem.
Fred

Fred & Brian,

While this is the epitome of Pandora's Box, I agree with both of you 100%. This was 'jerk Brian's chain day'.

Stuart