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#826939 02/16/2012 10:49 PM
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 15
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New Guy
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What is a preferred finish to use on the wood for a truck bed? I've heard from a woodworker that Wood Kote's Hi-Gloss Polyurethane Flagship UV 450 or their product called Clear & Clean (water base poly) are good choices. The Flagship 450 has a yellowish "warm" look and it is exterior and durable. The Clear & Clean is non-yellowish, interior (but ok if truck is kept out of weather).

What does the Stovebolt crowd recommend?


1950 Chevy 3100 5-Window
1946 Chevy Panel 3/4 Ton
hefdog #826951 02/16/2012 11:18 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
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'Bolter
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You'll want to use a product that's intended for outdoor use, evne if the truck isn't kept out in the weather when not being used. Indoor rated finishes will not hold up, I learned that the hard way.
I have no experience with the products you've listed, but I have used Helmsman Spar urethane varnish, which is a marine grade varnish, with exellent results. Most folks use 3-4 coats, but after talking to my cousins husband (a professional woodworker), I went with 8 coats per his suggestion. He was also the one who told me which product to use.


Bill Burmeister
LONGBOX55 #826964 02/17/2012 12:09 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 640
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I used the Helmsman Spar Varnish as well - at least eight coats. It took quite awhile, but it came out super, and it looks just like it did when I finished it back in 2008.


1948 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Tuesdays with Morris"
In the Legacy Gallery
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Tom R #827014 02/17/2012 1:58 AM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 888
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Mar K has an ongoing test here. May give you some more insight. Have fun and good luck
Dan

Chev4t6 #827037 02/17/2012 3:10 AM
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 171
5
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Whatever you decide on using, make sure you put the same number of coats on the bottom as the top. Otherwise the boards can cup from side to side. Moisture(humidity) enters the wood the quickest through the end of the boards so seal these real good. One way to do this is to take an old cake pan, buy your wife a new one, and fill it with a 1/4 - 1/2" of finish and stand your boards up with one end sitting in the finish for 12-24 hours and then flip the boards. Don't let the finish run down the face of the wood when you flip them. Spar Varnish is a good choice but high gloss will show scratches more so than semi-gloss. Another choice would be tongue oil. The oil finish is similar to what is used on cutting boards-they're wet all the time. The WARNING ON THIS FINISH is the rags used in wipping it on and off need to be soaked in a bucket of water when you are done. The boards can be spruced up easily while in the truck. Wood Kote 450 would be a good choice as it is high in solids. If you need to touch-up a scratch you will have to lightly (320 grit) sand the whole board before another coat is put on as it will need a mechanical bond.


....David
Chev4t6 #827040 02/17/2012 3:12 AM
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Epifanes varnish. Used on boats for 90 years, you can't beat that. That's my two cents. Remember to do all the sides of the boards too.

However, if you use your truck for hauling stuff, and in the rain, put some crushed walnut shells in the second to last coat. Other wise, you'll fall down when you walk in the bed in the rain. It will also keep your load from shifting.


Now, if you use your truck for hauling, real hauling, I'd use a million coats of linseed oil. Tung oil is actually better at preventing water vapour transfer, but I like the way linseed oil smells. This way, when you are done shovelling gravel out of the back, you can wash it, and re-coat. You also won't fall down when you are walking around in the rain. Most importantly, your truck will have patina, and will smell awesome, like an old truck.


I realize full well though, that most trucks aren't used to haul stuff, and in-fact many aren't driven in the rain either, and most people want "shiny", not "workie".


Christopher
1950 1-Ton
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hefdog #827094 02/17/2012 6:20 AM
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I think the Mar-K test confirms my own experience. There is no clear finish that will hold up to UV and the rain drying cycle. If you want to recoat every two years a clear coat will work or if you keep it garaged it will last. I am going to use latex paint but mine will be a daily driver in the northwest. I considered trying a penetrating urethane and putting it under a vacuum when it was applied but I still think it won't last. I have been a woodworker my whole life and have never seen a clear finish that will last without continous maintainance.

GWWirth #827158 02/17/2012 3:55 PM
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So, why have I never heard of anyone using Ipe for the bed wood? You can leave the Ipe unfinished, it will turn a nice grey color and last 50+ years out in the weather. Of course the big negative is that it weighs a "ton", but hey we are talking trucks here.

DavidF #827218 02/17/2012 7:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
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What's lpe?


Ed Miller
'58 Apache short Fleetside half ton Napco
Falls City, OR

enigmaT120 #827254 02/17/2012 10:01 PM
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Ipe (aka Iron Wood) is about 10x denser than oak, sinks, and is virtually rot proof. Used extensively as a decking material. I believe the Atlanta boardwalk is constructed of Ipe. So, as a truck bed material it would be very durable against gouging and scratches.

Last edited by DavidF; 02/18/2012 2:04 AM.
DavidF #827320 02/18/2012 1:47 AM
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Ipe' holds up well. I put some outside here in the NW about 10 years ago. Still solid as can be. Ugly gray though. It's very redish when new. Iron wood is a different wood. There are lots of others such as teak that will last in the weather but they all turn gray.


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