The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rattle can primer

I was wandering what spray can primer is the best...I am on a very limited budget...any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Thomas

If you are doing small areas, red oxide followed by sandable primer is ok. Not great, but ok. I would not use that on the entire truck.

You can now buy 2K primer (even 2K epoxy primer) in a spray can. It has a special activating button that mixes it, and once mixed is good for about 24 hours. It costs big bucks--about $20 for a can. But if you need to do a relatively small panel, or small parts, and want real primer coverage in 2K form (which is really what is needed for a proper base), it sure is handy. There are a couple brands out there, but the one I've used successfully is called SprayMax. If you google it you will be able to shop comparatively.

Thanks for the tips guys

The House of Kolor epoxy I use is right about $40 per quart, or $80 for the two quart kit. (part a and part b) So if you're on a budget, the epoxy in a spray can, given the 24 hour usage window, may not be as cost effective as mixing your own and mixing only what you need, versus wasting part of a spray can to the product curing. But if you don't have the spray equipment needed, the 2K or epoxy in the spray can IMO will give a much better substrate for your paint job than any single component spray can...

Rustoleum makes many different type of automotive primers in a rattle can. For small spot repairs, I think you get by with the rattle can primers. What you will find out is that the rattle can primers tend to clog the sand paper unless you let it dry forever. Once you use the good stuff (beit acrylic laquer or 2k urethane primer) you will never use the rattle can stuff again (except for small stuff that you not in a hurry to sand).

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2 sprayable (or brushable) gal of 2K epoxy primer (thats enough for the whole truck inside and out) for $162.00 (includes part A and part B)was the best deal I have found... Just how far does a $20 can really go? Will 8 cans cover an entire truck multiple times? I tried a spray can when I first began and I could tell it wasn't going to be the least expensive route. More like the most expensive.

I use Duplicolor filler primer while working on pieces for its fill qualities for small sanding scratches and as a temporary cover. When I am ready to paint I use the sealer/primer that goes with the paint I'm going to use. I don't have a lot of experience painting, but I did learn that whatever sealer/primer you use to cover the filler primer needs to interact well with the filler primer so you don't have to sand it completely down again. With the paint I used, you only have so much time to paint the base over the sealer/primer (without re-sanding). So, you need to just about to be ready to paint once the sealer/primer is put down to be efficient. Also, my truck is in the workshop, and is not exposed the elements while the filler primer is on.

Thanks for all the replies...the parts I'm painting are small like inner fender support rods and brackets...I wish I could get the cab in my garage but small projects at a time will keep me busy for a whle...has anyone used evapo-rust rust remover?

I use evapo-rust only on small bolts and parts. It works, but it takes FOREVER. If you dont have several days to leave the rusty parts submerged in Evapo-rust, then you are better off sandblasting.

FWIW, I skip the primer step on small parts like support rods, cast parts, etc. Save the primer for the expensive or hard to refinish body parts. Unless, of course, you are using the primer to eliminate rust pits...which should be done with body filler followed by primer and paint.