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| | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | I have the housing apart but can't seem to get the armature out of the housing. It almost feels like it's under spring pressure. Is there a trick to this? Seems like it ought to just slide right out once the two halves of the housing are separated.
By the way, it's the standard heater from a 56 Chevy.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | number of things you'll find - the bearing on the shaft will likely be very tight, may almost need to be pressed out .... the stiff old wires that come out the case may be binding so it won't move .... and last, the brushes may be hanging up on the edges worn on the commutator - and you'll be sorry when you do get them free, just try keeping them out of the way to get it back together  is there a reason to take it apart? you won't likely find any new parts for it, so if it is non-op, best to replace it with new, likely available at NAPA ... if it's noisy/squealing, there's usually small holes at each bearing you can put a drip of fine oil in, or put a drop on the shaft to run down Bill | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | The motor is non-operative and I took it apart to see if I could clean it and oil it and get it to work. The armature turns but is very stiff. Otherwise it looks all clean inside and the brushes and commutator are in good shape.
Whatever is holding it up, it is not the wires or the brushes. The brushes are free from the commutator and the wire goes to one of the field coils and out the side of the case. There is currently nothing attached to the armature to keep it in the case (that I can see). Is it supposed to turn stiffly? Others I've worked on (not Stovebolts) had a much smoother rotation.
There is only one wire, by the way, and I'm wondering where the second attaches. I don't see any sign of one that was cut off/removed.
I couldn't find anything on this subject in the online manual.
Last edited by joeflanagan; 02/01/2012 12:06 PM.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | yes it should turn very freely - 2nd connection on that one would likely be the ground of the case .... the heaters are in the accessories manual, but there's nothing about the blower motor because it's a "part", meant to be replaced if defective, not an assembly meant to be repaired .... not worth messing with, they're available at most FLAPS and the vendors have them, in the past I've gotten them for about $30
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | How are you holding your brushes back while installing the armature? And usually the armature spins on brass bushings.
Dennis
-there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | I have a 46 and I rebuilt both 6V blower motors. I am doing this from memory. On mine the two motor halves were secured by through bolts. The 1/2 with the brushes just pulled away from the armature. The field winding 1/2 I had to bend little tabs away from the field steel stack to pull it out. You need to be careful as one of the leads was welded to the outer shell. I just soldered a new lead and heat shrunk over the splice and put it back together. I measured the brushes and found some on the internet. they were like 10.00 for two. I turned the armature with my drill and a file and emery cloth. They both work great. I have a few photo's in photobucket but not detailed. The outer enclosure is ground. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | You guys speak from experience. I didn't have any trouble holding the brushes in using a pair of small screwdrivers. What made me throw the motor in the trash was trying to re-install the bearing at the end of the armature into the little tabs GWWirth describes above. I don't know if your 46 motor is a little different from my 56 GW, but I could not see any way to do it. I'm convinced it's not worth messing with it further.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | For these small bearings that gum up, I would suggest a shot of electrical connector cleaner. After it loosens up, follow it up with some oil. I haven't taken mine apart but I have used this method on other motors. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2012 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2012 Posts: 25 | did you get it back together,, I just took my gm accesory fan apart and rebuilt it,, and then the heater blower motor as well. The brass alignment balls on the shafts get corroded and they dont let the armature turn. I took this apart, drilled the brass pins out, steel wooled the shaft, electric cleaner on everyting, re-riveted the holders back in place , soldered new wires in and wala,, it works like new | | |
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