The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 Rebuild Question/Help

I had my engine rebuilt by a reputable machine shop; new pistons, rings, cam, etc. Also, I had insert bearings installed, instead of the Babbitt bearings. Starter & generator were rebuilt and a new battery installed. When I start it, it turns slowly, as if the battery was low – but it does start. A mechanic told me that was normal, until the engine gets broken in. Is that true? Also, any suggests as too how to break in the engine would be appreciated. Thanks. Bob

It is true that until the rings are seated additional friction will be present. Lots of engine building info on the page linked below...scroll down to break in procedure and click.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ContentData.aspx?Contentid=82

Thanks for the help Curt.

Bob,

What type of crankshaft did you use? Did you have an original crankshaft drilled for oil-feed to the rods, or did adapt a newer crankshaft to work in the 216?

They rebuilt the original crank; didn't drill oil feeds to the rods. Is that a problem?

No crankshaft modifications are necessary for an insert-bearing conversion. The same splash-oil system is used to lube the rod bearings. Some people insist on making a silk purse out of a sow's ear by drilling a 216 crank for pressure oiling. It's an absolutely unnecessary waste of time and money.
Jerry

That's good to hear Jerry. Does it make sense for the rebuild to crank slow? Will it improve after the rings get seated? Thanks for the help. Bob

HL,

Thanks. So, the only concern about lubrication is that oil dippers are in the correct orientation and oil dipper troughs are aligned?

Are inserts used for cost savings? The cost of machining the rod plus the bearing, compared to cost of a new babbitted rod (or the cost of re-babbitting)?

Tim, from the reading I've done babbitt bearings are expensive to replace and lots of shops don't do it. Also, I understand the insert bearings do a better job lubricating - and last longer.

Tim, there is nothing wrong with original GM poured bearings (actually not poured but spun in).
The problem comes in when a crank in turned down. You then have to have rods re-poured. The process of pouring is not as good as Chevs spun-in process and with the journal being smaller thicker Babbitt is needed. This thicker Babbitt is much more likely to crack and shed off.
By using inserts the shell of the bearing is thicker not the Babbitt so it makes a much better bearing.
Chev never sold under size rods, you were told to replace the crank if it needed turning.

If the insert bearings were set up with the proper oil clearance, they should not be the cause of the slow cranking speed. It's more likely that the pistons were fitted a little tight if the engine was also rebored, or maybe the new rings need to wear in a little to cut down on their friction on the cylinder walls. How much mileage does the engine have on it at the moment? If it's got over 500 miles on it since the rebuild and it's still tight, something has been fitted incorrcctly. Does it overheat or lack power?
Jerry