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#820002 01/26/2012 9:00 PM
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My rear suspension consists of a 10 bolt Chevy rear with leaf springs and tube shocks, mounted to the spring mount and a crossmember welded to the frame just after the axle. It is a horribly rough ride. I know that trucks are designed so that they actually ride better when there is a load in the rear, but I typically do not carry a load and my rear bounces all over the place. I am going to mount my gas tank under the bed, so hopefully that will add some needed weight.

Anyway, my first thought was to replace the shocks with ones that are maybe softer? I know that shocks don't do much for improving the ride, but it's a start. I currently have Gabriel Pro Ryder Premium Gas Truck Shocks. Does anyone know of a good shock that is soft?

Also, given my setup, is there anything else I could do to improve the ride? I was thinking of removing the smallest leaf from the leaf pack. I thought that might soften the ride a bit.

It's rough. I can stand in the bed right over the rear axle and try to bounce it as hard as I can, and it barely moves!

Thanks!

Last edited by stevebolt; 01/26/2012 9:01 PM.

1940 Chevy 1/2 ton, 12 volt, 350/350th
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I swapped out the old springs when I got the Camaro 10 Bolt and got a TCI spring kit. Of course being a 3/4 ton those springs were big and bad.


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In order for the shocks to smooth the ride, the suspension has to flex, at least a little. It sounds like you've got way too much spring for the weight of the back end of the vehicle and it's just jumping over the bumps. Try this- - - -put about 750 pounds of something in the bed, concrete blocks, steel, bricks, anything that will make the springs flex, and see if the ride improves. If it does, reduce the spring rate a little and you'll probably get a much smoother ride when it's unloaded.
Jerry



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Which rear spring are you using?
stock or aftermarket?

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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
reduce the spring rate a little and you'll probably get a much smoother ride when it's unloaded.
Jerry

How do I reduce the spring rate?


1940 Chevy 1/2 ton, 12 volt, 350/350th
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I put teflon strips between the leaves & it made a fantastic difference. Now the springs slid / flex much better.


1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.
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Originally Posted by stevebolt
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
reduce the spring rate a little and you'll probably get a much smoother ride when it's unloaded.
Jerry

How do I reduce the spring rate?

Remove a leaf or two from the rear springs. That will reduce the rate by a lot.

While you have the springs in pieces, taking out any Shallow notches on the remaining spring leaves with an angle grinder will help smooth the ride too. If there are deep notches worn in the leaves, especially the main leaf, it would be best to get the springs re-conditioned by a spring shop.

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Originally Posted by nvrdone
I put teflon strips between the leaves & it made a fantastic difference. Now the springs slid / flex much better.

That sounds like a good idea. Where do you get teflon stips?


1940 Chevy 1/2 ton, 12 volt, 350/350th
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Originally Posted by probird
Which rear spring are you using?
stock or aftermarket?

The rear springs are stock, but the shackles and bushings are new.


1940 Chevy 1/2 ton, 12 volt, 350/350th
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sounds like something is binding to me. is everthing loose that has to be loose. i suggest unbolting a few things and see if you can spot a binding spot. ie shocks,shackles and bushings.


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SB,
I had 3/4 T springs with I believe 7 springs. I removed 3 leafs and used a vinyl liner. I haven't drove yet but the rear end has a lot more bounce. Some pics start here. Maybe give you a few ideas. Have fun and good luck
Dan

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Originally Posted by Chev4t6
SB,
I had 3/4 T springs with I believe 7 springs. I removed 3 leafs and used a vinyl liner. I haven't drove yet but the rear end has a lot more bounce. Some pics start here. Maybe give you a few ideas. Have fun and good luck
Dan


Thanks for the pics! So what is the purpose of putting the smaller leaves on top of the longest leaf, the way you did it?


1940 Chevy 1/2 ton, 12 volt, 350/350th
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I too would like to know

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Originally Posted by stevebolt
Originally Posted by Chev4t6
SB,
I had 3/4 T springs with I believe 7 springs. I removed 3 leafs and used a vinyl liner. I haven't drove yet but the rear end has a lot more bounce. Some pics start here. Maybe give you a few ideas. Have fun and good luck
Dan


Thanks for the pics! So what is the purpose of putting the smaller leaves on top of the longest leaf, the way you did it?

He probably put the shortened leaves back on top of the spring to maintain the same overall depth of the spring for the stock U bolts. That's what I have done in the past anyway.

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I had to look up the reason! Must be loosing my mind.....Wife said I didn't have far to go....As long as life insurance is paid!! Have fun and good luck
Dan

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removing one or more of the leafs will give you a softer ride, just make sure you don't haul anything really heavy if you do that and new shocks after thats done to reduce the bounce


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I'm about to get started and I have a couple questions. First of all, are leaf springs typically under any load, like a coil spring is? You know how when you replace coil springs you need to put a jack under the lower control arm and lower it real slow or else the spring will kill you? Do you just unbolt the shackles and pull the leaf spring out ot do you need to take an precautions?

Also, I have what I believe to be the stock 1940 Chevy springs. There are 8 leafs. I plan to remove the bottom two. I also want to put those teflons strips between the remaining springs. I was going to balst the springs before I reinstall them, but is it a good idea to leave them unpainted if I'm using the teflon, or does it matter. I don't like the idea of having any unpainted metal under my truck, but will the paint cause more friction or will it not matter since I'm using the teflon strips.

My goal here is to improve the ride by making the rear suspension a little softer.

Thanks!


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Steve,

The springs are only under heavy pressure if you have the truck sitting on them. They are also under a little reverse pressure when the truck is jacked up and the rear is hanging, if that makes sense.

To remove the rear springs, jack the truck up high enough to remove the wheels and set it on jack stands. Remove the wheels and then put the floor jack under the center of the rear and jack it up just a little to carry the weight of the rear...don't pick the truck up. Now put a second set of jack stands under the axle and lower the jack. Then remove the U-bolts, shackles and pins, the springs are now free.

Note, The rear at this point can still have the drive shaft, brake lines and E-brake cables connected.

Now that the springs are on the floor, put a big 8-10" C-clamp right in the middle of the pack next to the center bolt and tighten it up. Then remove the center bolt, no need to completely remove, just get the nut off. Then back the C-clamp off and the springs will flex themselves right off of the bolt. The pressure on the C-clamp is not much, it's just more than you can handle with your hands. That's it, you now have everything apart.

Good luck and be safe...

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

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Don't forget about tire pressure. If you are running at pressures designed for a load, you may get some "cheap'' relief from reducing them.

I'm running an '87 Corvette rear end with gas tank at rear and it still bounces a bit.
Lower air pressures gave me a little relief.

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I removed the springs from my '48 sanded each side grinded the ends on a 22deg angle removed 4 leafs ,painted with POR 15, installed tefflon liner, installed new shackles, gas shocks 15" wheels and tires. Lowered it bout 2" and rides v-well.Not like a new one but better than it did.
I also took 3 leafs from the front corners for a smoother ride.
Just have to remember ITS A 60 Year old truck and its gonna ride like one. You can help it out a little but its still a 'ol truck.
That's the best part!
ENJOY IT


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