The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline '64 C10 w/ 4 drum brakes, can I add power assist?

Just bought my first project truck ... a '64 c10.

Should have known from the bottle of brake fluid in the cab that there'd be a brake issue. Lost brakes after about 4 hours after I brought it home.

Bled the brake lines (tons of air in there) and they work now. I'm keeping a close eye on the fluid level.

My question is: if I have to replace the master cylinder, can I get a duel chambered cylinder and add a power assist while keeping the drum brakes? Figure if I'm gonna have to replace the m/c, might has well add some extra stopping power. Didn't see this addressed in the other forum topics.

Thanks much for any help!

Hy BrianW, welcome, yes you can upgrade to power brakes, and to a dual master cylinder if you like. If you're considering a front disc brake upgrade as well, this would be the time to do it, so you can take care of all the plumbing and the combination valve installation all at once. Hope that helps.

Thanks, 3B ... that helps a lot. Once my shop manual comes in the mail, I'll start planning out what I need to do.

Any tips are appreciated!

Brian, I added a power setup to my 4 drum Camaro (your 64 should be very similar!), no issue and the brakes work great. You will need to rebuild the drums to make sure they are all properly adjusted and your lines are good. PB will find the issues Make sure you get a power master even if you can only find disc/drum masters. Putting a manual master behind a booster makes the brakes to touchy. Also, on Camaros there are two holes on the pedal arm, the higher one is used for power (decreases the angle of the shaft, less pressure). I would check your arm, you may need to create a higher hole if the brakes are to touchy after the swap. Luck!

Thanks, Kevin ... I've read that a power booster after a manual master can make the brakes touchy. So next up on this front is to price a change over to front discs to see if that is feasible, research the cost on switching to a power m/c, determining whether I'll be able to keep the wheels I have on there now (read somewhere that disc brakes require a certain width wheel), and reading up on rebuilding drums.

This truck is going to keep me busy for a loooong time! I'm loving it!

Good luck! The drums only wheels interfere with the calipers, for disc wheels there is a different inner contour that clears the calipers. But I think that only applied to 14 inch wheels. If you have 15s or 16s, then they should clear.

@BrianW, A whole bunch of stuff you read around the web is horse droppings written by folks who have never done the job! Beware! On the other hand, what you find here is usually pretty accurate 'cause sooooo many already have the books!

You have picked just about the easiest power brake swap there is! You will need the master/booster combo and the mounting brackets with the levers and arms. Add the vacuum line, look at the fitting on the booster for size, and you are good to go. No matter what on-line sales companies say the bias valve doesn't care what pushes it. Your original will work fine! A booster does NOT add pressure to your brake system! It lowers the "perceived pedal pressure." That and the other work you do on your brakes will make them feel like they will stop on a dime.

I'm getting ready to do the same job on my 1969 C20 Panel truck. I'll document the job and post the pictures to http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h430/Roadmarks/ which is my Photobucket account. Feel free to keep my addy from my profile and get in touch if you need help!

BTW, I think KevinW is right about the wheels and even some of the 15" ones. Autozone PN is 50-1011 for around $110 + core for master and booster together! Try the local stores first before ordering on line.

You'll love the '64 C20!

There is no place for us, so we 3/4T guys have to stick together!

Actually, a booster does increase the line pressure when the brakes are applied. That's why the pedal effort is less. That's also why power brakes are more effective than manual brakes, there's more hydraulic pressure in the system to apply for to the friction material.

Thanks Roadmarks! I'll keep an eye on your progress, watch and learn. I tagged this tread and perhaps will need to take you up on your offer when the time comes.

To clarify, where you referring to keeping the drum/drum with power m/c as the easy one?

Brian, it is a easy swap. Just to clarify, you wont find a rebuilt or new power drum master anywhere, the only thing that is available is the power disc/drum and that works just fine. You can get the booster and MC almost anywhere, so shop by price. After you upgrade to 4 drum power, you can always decide later one about upgrading to discs down the road.

LONGBOX55,

I was taught that there is just so much pressure that can be applied by an automotive brake system through a 1/4" line. The Vehicle will use whatever pressure is applied and doesn't care where it comes from, manual master or power master. Since the booster doesn't enter into the fluid side of the brakes, all it can do is add "pedal Pressure." The booster does make the pedal pressure easier to apply, so in that sense it can increase braking, but only in that sense. It does NOT increase line pressure over what someone with a strong, determined leg can do!
The booster just changes the feel of the pedal, not the efficiency of the system.

best wishes,

Les

@KevinW, Kevin, look around some more. The AutoZone PN I posted is for Drum-Drum. It is an A. Cardone reman from Philly PA. The master/booster combo uses the SAME master, just a different pushrod for each. As well as AutoZone, Carquest, O'Reillys, and our one and only FLAPS have the same reman, all about the same price, give or take $10. NAPA does too, but they are over $50 higher!

Pirate Jacks has the whole package new for around $200. New or used, they ARE available if you look around.

best wishes,

Les