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I have a 54 3100 and the doors have to be slammed..I have farted around till the cows come home and still no luck. Has anyone put on those aftermarked ones from Altermans ( I think thats the name ) if so, how much do you need to modify ? or are they bolt on?
I would like an honest review before I try.
Thanks

I don't know, but I am going to keep an eye on this post. I will need new latches and you can never tell the quality of anything any more. (I just assume the worst, and am rarely disappointed)

I have tried two aftermarket latches without being satisfied. I ended up replacing the spring in the old ones after soaking them and cleaning them in varsol (actually, it was spray gun cleaner). Work like a champ.

This guy installed what looks like Altman latches on an AD

Start at post 162

I recently replaced the drivers side latch on my '51 1/2T burb. My existing latch was really shot. I got the replacement from Chevy of the 40's.

The actual construction of the latch was pretty decent. It was the exact same design as the original. Unfortunately, once it was latched it would not unlatch. I studied on it a bit and then made a few cuts with a dremel tool, and then it functioned perfectly.

Next problem was when I went to install it, I first bolted it up the the jamb of the door, but when I went to put the screw in from the inside of the door, the was a significant gap between the lock body and the door.

As it turns out, the lock body stamping on the aftermarket latch is formed to make pretty much a right angle. The original body seemed to form a greater than 90 degree angle. I was able to wack the intersection with a ball peen hammar a few times and spread it out so it fit perfectly.

So I am pretty happy with it and the overall quality. It just needed a litle "Tweaking"

On the passenger side lock, I cleaned the original and added one of those little clip on parts over the movable part, and now it works fine.

Kurt

"No Altman Easy Latch Kit will allow you to lock your door by pushing forward on the interior handle. It is advised to use electric lock actuators or fabricate your own lock rods."

This would cause me to stop and think before I leaped.

a lot of folks just put 'bear claw' latches on these trucks.

I don't know about the '54, but the '64-'66 trucks, the door hinge pins have bushing inserts that get worn and makes the door droop, causing the doors not to want to latch without slamming.

-W

I have looked at those latches and my question is: why use those Altman parts instead of stock parts (original or repro)?

wave - the repro AD latches may be junk, but I haven't had any problems with the repro TF latches I've used

Bill

I have been through two sets of repop door latches. I finally gave up on the passenger side and dug the original out of the iron pile, cleaned it up and put it back in and it works just fine.

I am actually a machine shop instructor and I cant make these darn things work, not for lack of polishing, bending, tweaking, oiling...you name it.

I have spent hours and hours on the drivers door trying to get that repop latch to work. I am really disgusted.

I'm not happy with the repop latches I bought either. I saved my old latches and will probably try to rebuild them when I get a round tuit.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=783239#Post783239
Quote from above thread 10/2011

Well I am going to try the Altman latches, made by Trique Manufacturing. I'll report on how they work out.

I just installed a repo for the drivers side on my "48" 3100. Very little tweaking and works perfect. Purchased from an e-bay vendor called Classic Chevy Truck Parts. Seller name is chevykens. He stood behind his latch to the point that he would pay the freight to return it if I was not happy. I was happy with the latch.

One of the most satisfying accomplishments I have had was fixing a very badly worn and corroded door latch on my 50. I totally disassembled it, including removing the parts that were welded on or peened in place. I then replaced worn away metal with a TIG welder, using a good passenger side latch as a reference. It was amazing how much metal was missing. Most of the damage to these latches is caused by misaligned doors due to worn hinges causing them to crash into the striker plate causing broken welds, bent metal and severe wearing away of metal. A misaligned door is also a problem in getting a good latch to work properly.

I got the Altman latch kit and installed it on the passenger side, and boy am I impressed! I can close the door with one finger and it works perfectly. No more slamming until the glass breaks. Those days are over.

Just have to install the driver's side now.