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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 57
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 57
I know most prefer replacing the 216s with later 235's with the full pressure. But I've decided to stick with the 216 because it was my Grandpa's pickup that's been in my family since 1953 so I want to restore it as close to original as possible.

I was wondering, if you can find NOS engine parts, are you better off using them or, due to advancements in metalurgy, are you better off using current production replacement parts? And, if you go with new, do you run the risk of inferior foreign quality? (I'm not sure if the new parts are foreign or not, it just seems everything's made overseas these days.)

If new is the way to go, have any of you dealt with numerous suppliers and found the parts and/or service was superior from one over the other(s)?

I've also heard about Beck's full-pressure conversion for 216s. Has anyone had theirs done or is it really expensive?

Thanks,
Shawn


Shawn

1950 3600 Pickup, 1958 Plymouth Belvedere
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,882
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,882
There's nothing at all wrong with the 216 splash oiler engine, as long as it's built right. In my decidedly biased opinion, the full-pressure conversion is a total waste of time and money. The splasher design was used for over two decades under all sorts of extreme conditions including wartime use. Keep it full of the right-type oil and keep the bearing clearance adjusted, and the splash system will outlive another generation or three of owners.

There are plenty of rebuilding parts available, some new, others original-equipment. Whenever possible, I'd reccomend taking advantage of new technology, such as the replaceable connecting rod bearings that eliminate the poured-Babbit rods that were original equipment. The original rods are machined to accept replacement bearings in a variety of undersizes which allow the crankshaft to be reground without needing the rods replaced with undersized ones, and the modification is not obvious unless the engine is disassembled. Aluminum pistons are available to replace the original cast iron ones, again, a modern upgrade that increases performance and reliability without being obvious to the casual observer. Do a complete out-of-the-frame overhaul, and the engine will be good to go for another 50 years or more, in better condition than new. Get ready to spend upwards of $2,000.00 for this type of rehab, however. A quick and dirty in-the-frame rebuild (ring & valve job and adjust the rod bearing clearance) can be done for around $300.00, but don't expect much reliability or good performance with that approach.
Jerry


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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 57
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 57
Thanks for the insight Jerry. Yes, I'm doing the complete "engine out" overhaul and already have it dismantled. Everything looks pretty good with the exception of one bad rod journal. I don't think it's beyond repair by having it ground.

I'd heard using aluminum pistons is the way to go to take some of the stress off the rod bearings.

I've been doing some web searches and it looks like Kanter's offers the most complete kit including converting the rods to insert bearings.

Are there any other suppliers out there anyone can recommend for a complete kit? It's not only about the money but I usually like to get a couple quotes and compare what each supplier has to offer before making a major purchase.

Thanks,
Shawn


Shawn

1950 3600 Pickup, 1958 Plymouth Belvedere

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