The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop '46 216 stuck engine pics

Happy new year folks,
As a follow up to my post from a while back here are some pics of the engine with the valve cover off and oil pan removed.
I followed the advice and have and will continue to soak evertyhing in Kroil.
I did take the oil pan off to see if anything might be jammed in there, since I am also stuck in gear.
I did not notice anything unusual, but maybe your "experienced" eyes will see something that might help me.
I did order the fancy flywheel turner tool from Snap On, but at this point there is no moving the flywheel at all. Yes- I did take the flywheel cover off (both parts were actually there)!!
Please see the link below for the pics!
Cheers,
Andy

http://flic.kr/pp/corsmtv

http://flic.kr/ps/25Jd71

or this one..who knows..can't figure this picture posting out..sorry

On my 46 one piston had blown apart and that was why it was seized. Once I dropped the oil pan and saw the metal in it even I could figure out something bad had happened. It was hard to see as the crank hid a direct look from underneath. I had tried soaking the engine with diesel fuel and transmission fluid to free it and found the engine crank under the seat , but , elbow grease and the crank did not work. I'm afraid I don't see what your problem is.

What you'll need to do is begin stripping down this motor, pull the head, pan, trans etc etc. I had one that had been apart out in the weather, was able to drive pistons out one at a time and eventually saved the motor.

Also I see the ring gear of the flywheel, I used my GIANT Harbor Freight screwdriver to turn my enging over at that point.

Also inspect the side of the block behind the generator for cracks, common to find long cracks in that area, if that's the case the motor is a gonner.
Best of luck

The rocker arm and valves look really dry and rusty. Personally I wouldn't try and turn the engone over with the pushrods and rocker arm in place. You could do damage if a valve is stuck.

There also seems to be an unusual amount of oil on the ring gear. I would think that you would be better off pulling the motor.

Andy,

I'd say just keep at it - patience and perseverance will win in the end. Keep dousing it with the Kroil, from the top end down.

I'd agree with loosening up the rocker arm assembly, since you're likely to have stuck valves, I would think.

Some people advise jacking up the rear end and turning a wheel with the transmission in low gear to turn the engine. Never done this though. This way or with a pry bar on the ring gear, take turns turning it both directions. The pressure both ways will eventually weaken the rust.

Personally, I'd want the tranny to be free, so I knew it wasn't the gearbox keeping the engine from turning. With the cover off the tranny, can you not get the shifter forks moving? Hear again, seems like having the rear wheels jacked off the ground would help.

Keep it up and don't lose faith. When you're ready to give up, let me know - I'll send a trailer for it. I've been wanting an Art Deco series commuter!

-Michael

I'm in the same boat as Fred, a motor in that condition needs to be pulled out and
serviced.

Is if possible to free it up and get it started???? Well maybe, but you're gonna have valve
troubles but the main thing is the Cast iron rings are rusted into the Cast iron pistons,
which are rusted into the Cast iron cylinders and even if you got them to move the rings
are not going function and the machined finish is completely gone from the internal
surfaces.
An engine is a precision piece of machinery and about all you are going to do if you
manage to get it to fire is ruin it further maybe beyond the point of repairing it.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks for all the input it means a lot!
Michale, I won't be giving up on this baby, so Unless I will be banging my head too hard against the wall, hold off on the trailer.
1st and Reverse gear move on shaft. 2nd and 3rd do not.

I will take the tranny out and continue to disassemble and likely have it rebuild.

Now...the big question is....How much what would anybody's best guess be this whole procedure will set me back!??!

As you can tell by all my "basic" posts, I am not very experienced, but I would attempt to do everything I can prioe to getting the engine to a machine shop/

Anybody wanna thro some rough numbers out there?

Thanks again,

Andy

If you pay to have your motor honed, or bored, head rebuilt, new rings, gaskets, valve seats, maybe new pistons, reground, crank, and cam. For the motor I would set aside$2000 and hope to only spend around $1200. I would also set aside $1200 for the trans and hope to only spend $600.
It all depends on the condition of your existing motor and trans, and how much work your willing to do, as well as where you get your parts, and who does your machine work. I am quite sure plenty of people on this site have spent half or twice as much.
My $.02

I just finished rebuilding my transmission. It was actually quite easy, the hardest part was getting the replacemsnt parts I needed. Maybe you will be lucky and only need bearings and bushings, they are easy to get, got mine from Jim Carter. You might be at the point where pulling the transmission might help everything out, and make it easy for yourself. After looking at my pictures of my transmission, I think your transmission is in gear. you need to slide the clutch in the transmission to the rear to disengage the input shaft. Dave