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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,407 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 | As usual need advice. I would like to replace the rear spring eye bushings and pins. I have plenty of jackstands and a couple of hydraulic jacks. The truck is put away for the winter in my garage. I can heat the garage when I want to work on the truck so if it takes a month or so no problem.
The driveline is 84 GMC 1/2 Ton and the rear axle housing sets on top of the springs instead of below as original. I would like not to disturb the brake lines/hoses if possible. So what do you guys think is the best way to go about this? Do I jack the axle up, get the weight off and proceed from there or do I jack the frame up loosen the U bolts and then drop the axle? Do the springs need to come all the way off the axle to replace the bushings? What happens when the pins are driven out of the spring eyes? Do the springs suddenly expand or contract? I still have a black fingernail from a garage door spring and I don't want another one. I know this is a LOT of questions but this doofus wants to keep from getting maimed. Anybody done this and can offer advice?
Weeds | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 | Jacking up the frame will unload the springs. I'd suggest supporting the frame just ahead of the front of the springs on a couple of sturdy jack stands until the tires just barely clear the ground, and using a rolling floor jack under the center of the rear end to manipulate the rear end up and down to keep it from doing anything dramatic as you unbolt shackles, etc. Leaving the wheels and tires on will prevent damage to the flex line for the brakes, parking brake cables, etc. Even if you have to unbolt the U-bolts and take the springs to a press, you can do that one spring at a time without doing a complete rear end removal. Jerry
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| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 255 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 255 | X2 what Hotrod said. Also check the "tech tips" section. There is a good write up on this job. It helped a lot when I replaced the pins and bushings in my 38. Good luck ! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 | tcox, I tried the tech tip link you sent and don't see anything on rear suspension. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.
Jerry, I am using your method except I took the wheels off. They were in the way for this old f-rt to get at the U bolts. The axle is sitting on 2 jackstands. The frame is sitting on 2 more jackstands ahead of the front spring attach point. I plan to add 2 more jackstands on the frame behind the rear attach points. I am hesitant about getting any part of myself under the truck without making dang sure it is supported securely. Thanks for the advice.
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