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I have a 51 half ton that I have been doing a bunch of upgrading on. I have switched out to a 86 S-10 rear end and have added a mustang II rack and pinion. I am just now getting ready to make my first trip out with it BUT . . in driving it around the yard, the truck is REALLY "wobbly". The suspension seems really very bouncy. I realized that with leaf springs all the way around there is going to be a lot of that but has anyone made changes to stiffen it up? Anti sway bars? Air Shocks? Before I start trying stuff I was just wondering what has been tried and works. Thanks for any help. -Dave

By the way . . I still have the straight axle and leaf springs . . just added the rack and pinion

Where is the rack & pinion mounted- - - -to the axle or the body? What kind of shock absorbers are you running?
Jerry

Mounted to the axle. Stock monroe shocks

Adding an anti-sway bar will help stability in turns, but bouncing is either not enough spring, or poor shock absorber action. Be sure the steering shaft between the body and the rack telescopes freely as the body leans or the axle negotiates bumps. A binding steering shaft is the most common cause of problems with an axle-mounted R&P system. Good luck!
Jerry

Does the anti sway bar mount anywhere on the axle that would interfere with the r/p setup or the r/p interfere with mounting the sway bar?

Most sway bars are in the form of a U-shaped loop that brackets to the frame just behind the front bumper brackets, and attach to the spring U-bolt area with short pivoted links. They shouldn't interfere with the movement of the rack & pinion. I predict you'll be scrapping that setup VERY soon in favor of a more conventional steering system. The ones I've seen in use usually suck worse than a Hoover upright!
Jerry

If you can post a link to a photo, people should be able to tell you if the stock or after-market sway bars will interfere with the steering assembly you are using.

I'll get some pics up in the next few days . .

Jerry . . Now I'm curious . . I have heard that the original steering set up is the worst . . that the rack and pinion was the way to go . . what are the issues with it?

Since the rack & pinion is mounted on the axle, the shaft that connects it to the steering column must constantly change length and angle to compensate for front axle movement up and down, plus body lean. It's almost impossible to keep the slip coupling aligned properly and lubricated sufficiently to keep it from binding and/or wearing out rapidly. I guess it's OK on a trailer queen that gets hauled to car shows and spends very little time on the road, but that steering system would be the absolute last choice I'd make for a daily driver. If you want to keep the straight axle (a very good idea, IMHO), why not mount a power-assisted modern steering box on the left frame rail ahead of the axle? It's a simple fix for anyone with a pretty good knowledge of geometry and welding, and much more durable and reliable than the R&P system. I really have a problem with using components for subcompact cars on pickup-sized vehicles.
Jerry

The rack and pinion set ups manufactured today are hardly from "sub-compacts". I believe the mustang II refers more to a style than an actual off the shelf part. BUT, with that said, I am a little leery of the telescoping shaft as well but I think I have that under control, I'll know soon enough. I have made a couple of modifications including a "stability mount from the frame. Very few options with a V8 and mostly stock frame and axle as far as I can see.

But . . thanks for the opinion, I appreciate it.

I have a 49 - 1/2 ton that was lowered by removing spring leafs which then made the ride too mushy. I don't plan on carring much wieght and like the stance but hate the lean on cornering. Would sway bars solve the problem or just be more money spent when what I should do is put a leaf back in. I belive there were 2 leafs removed from each corner. THX for your advice. Keep truck'n