The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Door Post ID - painted???? 1953 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton

Apparently the PO thought it would be a great idea to paint over the original door plate ID on my truck. Any ideas for removal of the paint and still maintain the original plate? Even if I lose the detail, the serial number was stamped right? Looks like mine is riveted.
Anyway to tell by plate dimensions if it a 1953 Chevy 3100 --- I know the colors changed, but was the size different?

Thanks.

Same thing happened to me.
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I was able to remove the paint with a razor blade. Cleaned it up with general cleaner and a rag.

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Saved most of the screen print on it.
There should be a s/n stamped on it.

In some cases this is also the VIN
My truck is titled and registered with that door post number.

Be careful

The 1953 ID plate is taller than its width and has a black background.
The 1951-1952 ID plates are wider than their height and have a black background.
The 1954 ID plate is taller than its width and has a blue background.

The HP ratings are different for different years.

The rivet-style attachment pieces are available and are easy to install.

Search this catalog on the following words: ID plate

http://www.classicparts.com/default.asp

Thanks.

Shouldn't it be blue for 1953?

1953 - Last year for the 216 in² I6. Hood side emblems now only read 3100, 3600, 3800, 4400, or 6400 in large print. Door post ID plate now blue with silver letters (previous models used black with silver letters). Last year to use wooden blocks as bed supports. New serial number codes: H 1/2 ton, J 3/4 ton, & L 1 ton.

Chevs of the 40s and Classic Parts both show the 1953 truck ID plate as being black.

Maybe someone with a 1953 truck with original plate can confirm/correct this?

I think that I might have the incorrect color posted on a few places on my website, but I cannot now check my website.

It is certainly blue with light letters. (Letters appear to be white with silver bacground around the middle box on the plate) I just revealed mine using DADS50 recommendation. I did OK, it was hard to start, but once started it went quickly.

Can read all of the text, but lots of cloudy oxidation remain (perhaps primer?) and some surface rust still on it. I tried using a CLR cleaner and then a metal polishing agent on it with minimal success. Guess I need something more specialized to assist. Thoughts?????

Why wouldn't they just mask this off before painting!?!?!

Wow, seems so senseless.

My truck had the same issue and I said the same thing. Luckily, the paint was not on very well and I buffed it off with a soft buffing wheel. My original ID tag is black.

Wow, Denny --- I guess it could be just because I wanted to stay with the original. You know what actually came on my truck from the factory. Imagine that!


Never thought that trying to restore something as simple as an ID plate instead of just purchasing a repro would upset the fold.

I know there are reproductions of everything out there. That was not my question. I was simply inquiring if anyone had any advice on cleaning up my original.

Well, I polished it out. Scratched up somewhat and aged, but I like it. The whole truck is restored, but I think this adds a bit of original flair to the ole ride and maintains that original charm. I am glad that I rescued it.

Something to be said of original parts...

The 53s look just like the 54s.

However it is strange. I cannot find a real 1953 reproduction that matches my original, even if I wanted to swwp it out. The HP rating is not right if I get the 1954. Strange.

I know this is an old post, but I actually had a similar problem on my truck (1950 Chevy 4100). When I went to clean off the paint all of the original information was either gone or came off with the other paint. Since I am a Graphic Designer, I figured I could easily fix this. So what I did was recreate the silk-screened original design, then substituted the correct GVW and HP. I went to my nearest arts & crafts store and bought a transparent water slide decal kit meant for inkjet printers. I then cleaned the id plate very well, leaving the VIN # in tact. After printing & sealing the decal with supplied aerosol sealer, I trimmed the decal so that the VIN stamp area would be open. After applying the decal & a coat of flat clear enamel, this thing looks good! In my case, since I am rebuilding & not necessarily restoring, I purposely left some of the gashes and scratches in the plate, and since the decal is transparent, it looks old & faded, but still completely legible.

This is a great fix for those, like me, that have trucks with larger GVWs.

If anyone is interested in a complete walk-through and/or the design for the ID plate (so that you may print your own decal), just shoot me a PM. I would be happy to help.

1953 chevrolet truck is blue/silver
1953 GMC truck is black/silver

FYI

My 53 VIN plate is also blue.

The plate on my '53 3100 is black. The reproduction plates are blue. Maybe a mid year change? That could be why some '53s have the '54 style plates?